Our First Christmas

No matter what we do over the holidays, we know we are blessed. We made it here; we live in a postcard; have made new and dear friends; we’ve waded through most of the Italian paperwork (for now), we and the pups are healthy and happy.

Christmas here in Italy is not only about decorations, baking, shopping, gift giving and the like, but mostly about CHRIST in Christmas. You can visit live nativity scenes, whether created as whole towns on hillsides or within the piazza in your local comune. Families assemble elaborate nativity scenes inside and outside their homes – ‘presepi’, and I mean, very elaborate and intricate!

Christmas Eve (La Vigilia di Natale), we got to experience the live Nativity in Atri, with the characters making a lovely procession through the medieval alleyways of town. Two bagpipers, clothed in black hats and capes, let the procession. The bagpipes played are very Italian, and the shepherds that play these instruments are the Zampognari. As the procession wove through the old town, blacksmiths hammered away and a monk-like character ladled out hot mulled wine to outreaching hands. 😉 The many beautiful churches of Atri were open for worship throughout the evening and night.

bagpipe

Live Nativity characters lead by the Zampognari.

joining the navitiy

A visitor staying warm….

 

Christmas morning rose beautiful and by the time I got rolling, it was about 55+ degrees. Romeo and I set out to hike out of our valley to a spot where we could either gaze to the mountains or the sea. I stopped for a few moments on our trek to listen and I heard absolutely nothing…..just the stillness. No human-made sound and even the birds were quiet. Just utter silence. It was breathtaking in the fact that I hadn’t experienced that for a very long time. Even hiking in Nelson County, Virginia,  we would hear the jets making their long journeys over the mountains that were in their flight paths. So Romeo and I continued on to our spot and just relaxed in the silence gazing over the Adriatic. It was a time to remember Christ in Christmas.

the seatoward the gran sasso

Christmas evening was a much anticipated event – dinner with Luigi and his family. We were so looking forward to being with our new friends as well as tasting the delights of a tipico abruzzese Italian Christmas meal. The food was plentiful, of course, and delicious, of course. Laughter, cross talking, loud talking, jabs right and left all in good fun made for wonderful memories of the evening. And I was transported back in time and place when my family in New Jersey would meet for holidays and weekends to share such a blessed time together. Here are a few shots from the evening. I’ll leave you with them and a Buon Natale e Felice Anno Nuovo. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

When The Winds Blow

Last year, this region of Italy was slammed with an inordinate amount of snow. The folks around here are saying this only happens once in 5 years. Well, that seems like a pretty tight model for us. Power was out for many days, snow reached up to tops of doors, stuff like that. Now, the worst of it was closer to the mountains, but even Treciminiere, where we live, had a couple of feet from what I can gather looking at pictures.  Even if we don’t get much snow, fingers crossed as I’m not a winter person, the wind blows from the mountains with a fierce-some force.

So, we’re taking measures to prepare for the worst, and hope, as they say, for the best. One of the challenges is the mud around here. The alluvial soil turns into glue. Sticks to your car, feet, dogs’ paws and just is a pain. The road we live on is gravel and farm tractors are up and down it during the day. This in itself may prove to be a bit problematic maneuvering if winter is wet and warm. So maybe I need to pray for cold temps until the spring. In regards to mud and our parking area outside the courtyard, we lined the area with cane stalks (in lieu of straw) and this will give us a stronger base to walk over. Always the courtyard to park in if needed.

 

Another item to take care of are the broken windows and open spaces under the house. We have basically three rooms on the ground floor under our living space; stable, cantina & storage. The stable was the worst offender with a number of broken panes of glass and just open drafty windows. John took cardboard, left over from all the IKEA boxes, and covered up all the openings. He then sprayed the cardboard with some acrylic to weatherproof. Looks like it’s working and the floors upstairs are much warmer. In addition, John put up a tarp over the entrance to the cantina to stop more airflow.

Inside, we had to take care of the entry hall as this space was an add-on at a later date and not winterized at all. Single pane windows, sorely needed silicone, and the older part of the house is not heated. John bubbled wrap windows and the dividing door from unheated to heated. We also got some heavy curtains to cover the single pane windows in the heated part. Much better and the dogs are happier as well, as they have their beds in this hall.

We have lots of gas for our boiler and cords and cords of wood. Dogs have a nice garage with dog beds & heat lamp, so they are set on the days it’s not too nasty. Otherwise, the guys are usually inside with us when there’s bad weather. In the unheated part of the house, we have a cold storage room. We are setting aside drinking and washing water, extra staples and the such. So, yes, there are some challenges apart from all the beauty, but that’s a given everywhere on planet earth 🙂 And it doesn’t sound too much different from winters in Virginia.

Some fun stuff that has been going on these past few weeks are wrapped around the holiday season. Christmas decorations have gone up in towns and villages and many homes have twinkling & blinking colorful lights. Stores are filled with all kinds of sweet gifts, wrapped in sparkling and shiny papers and bows.

 

In Atri, the season opened with La Notte dei Faugni, which coincides with the Feast of the Immaculate Conception.

(Google translate: The tradition of the “faugni” in Atri is very rooted and dates back to the pre-Roman period, when the city was the capital of southern Piceno. In Atri the “faugni” appeared for the first time in religious rites in 431 AD. with the council of Ephesus. Subsequently, this ritual was renewed on the occasion of the translation of the Santa Casa da Nazart to Loreto. Tradition has it that even today, at the dawn of December 8th (5.00 am), feast of the Immaculate Conception, there are “fauns.” The Faugni are bundles of light, well-connected reeds that are brought into procession along the streets of the historic center of the city of Atri, from people of all ages, each of which embraces a “faugno.” The event acquires a particular charm due to the historical setting in which it is repeated: you walk the streets and neighborhoods of the historical center, along the remains of an ancient theater of the 1st century AD, the churches from the thirteenth century to the eighteenth century and the ducal palace of Acquaviva (one of the most powerful families in central southern Italy from the fourteenth century to the 18th century.)

 

John and I are still not quite into the late night/all night partying culture of Italy, so we bailed very early in the evening. We did get to see & hear a wonderful Celtic Italian band – Modena City Ramblers – warming up for their set that was to begin at 1:30 am. Warm up was at 8 pm and we could manage that. Streets lightly filled with the earlier crowd. When I looked back on FB the next day, I saw pictures of the streets packed with folks during the wee hours of the morn.

Also this past week, I got to attend a training session with Sea Rescue Dog Association. Romeo and I were both thrilled to be working. As I mentioned in my bio, I had been an operational dog handler in search and rescue in Virginia for a bit over 25 years. Great years of volunteer work and also great friendships with other dog handlers. Sorely missed! I do get a chance to chat online, from time to time, with my good friend, Pam, who is an operational handler with K9 Alert SAR Dogs, but it can’t take the place of face-to-face in-person camaraderie.

Going to this training on Sunday, now that I’m planted in Italy, was a treat, and Romeo got a good workout. Working dogs need to work. Sure, I take him for numerous walks, but built into this breed is the desire to work = thinking play, so to speak. Sunday was the ticket. Two hours of obedience & socialization exercises. Some of the lesson took place in two different adjoining (busy) piazzas and the other on the beach. I was in heaven, as I was brought up as a water baby and the sea calls. Romeo was a bit in shock. IMGP1078 - Copy First time seeing waves. And he really wanted to test the waters, but the exercise was to teach the dogs, at this point, to remain on shore while the handlers approached the water. Lots of fun and we’re invited back as either a guest or a member.

Now, I did retire from SAR to give John and I more time together to explore and that is still set in stone. Giving each weekend to training is a huge commitment, which I did faithfully carry out in Virginia. Now we want to see Italy and Europe. No more callouts in the middle of the night or on holidays to look for a missing person. I’ve passed that baton over when we moved here. But I can be a member, train Romeo and assist on a more relaxed schedule. No, I’m not going to test to be operational, because at this time in my life passing a lifeguard test is not going to happen. 😉  I guess you can tell I am pumped as I’m rambling on and giving you way too much information. I’ll stop here with a huge “thank you” to everyone at Sea Rescue Dogs and, of course, my husband.

I leave you with some great shots, courtesy of John, of our training day. Ciao until next time.

 

 

 

 

 

Milestones

Moving to a new country definitely requires some paperwork, bureaucracy, patience, grunt work, prodding, copying, multiple appointments, misunderstandings, more patience and then finally success.

john cartaIt’s one thing to chat with our new Italian friends in our basic Italian and to have them take the time to make us understand or even speak a little English back to us. But when you need to get some official paperwork completed, such as a visa, you better be up on your Italian, have a friend come to interpret and pitch hit for you,  or you’ll be using Google translate and still be misunderstood and also not understand. All in a day becoming a new resident of this country.

I won’t bore you with all the details but here is the sequence we needed to follow and we’re just about there:

 

  • I applied (or could just wait for John ) for residency. I need to be acknowledge by the comune as a resident to get free health care.
  • John needed his Carta di Soggiorno (5 year visa) to get his Codice Fiscale ( I had mine already being a citizen).
  • John gets his Codice Fiscale (Italian Social Security number)
  • John applies for residency
  • We both go to get our Health Insurance card and assigned a primary physician. If you have a recommendation, you can pick your own.
  • Also at anytime now we can get our Carta Identita. ID Card so we don’t have to carry our passports around.

Does your brain hurt yet? Mine did a bit, but we’re at the end of the tunnel and this week we pick up our health cards and open a bank account.

……..

Update on on Tessera Sanitaria (Italian healthcare card) and bank… John and I got our cards today, so socialized healthcare is now part of our lives and we are very pleased, indeed. Went to open a bank account and, to get the best deal, we need our Carta Identita. John heads off to the grocery store this morning, where they have a photo booth, and get some pics taken. I have mine and Monday we will get our cards, then back to the bank. Everything is falling into place. And hopefully our car will be ready for us sooner than not. Still waiting on delivery to the dealer.

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My good friend, Pam, recently asked me what I’ve been doing apart from all the great trekking through the vineyards with the dogs. Truthfully , not enough of seeing Italy.. Setting up a home takes more time than I remember, because we’re doing a lot from scratch and in a new land. And once all this paperwork is behind us, I sincerely hoping we’ll have MUCH more time to play!

Well, we did take a short trip out to another medieval hill town, as well as walk some more through our ‘home town’, Atri. When you come to Italy, you will be amazed by the number of these hill towns everywhere. The terrain lends itself to these strongholds against invasion, and today are cherished and lived in, thus preserving ancient structures and character. The environs are usually friendly, calling out a greeting, but you will find the ‘older’ group a bit more hesitant until they have given you the once-over. 😉 Here are a few shots of the streets, which we love to walk. Atri is high on our list to do more touring with eight museums, centuries old churches, cisterns and just some wonderful belvederes overlooking the mountains and sea.

 

 

Well, Thanksgiving, a very American holiday, just passed and oh, what a memorable one it was. True, we were not with family, and that is sad, but new friends made it a special day. Having this holiday with other English speaking residents, some from the United States (actually 6 of us out of the 8 for dinner were from Virginia!) and two lovely Brits, just seemed to balance life here in Italy. It’s one thing to make new Italian friends and be immersed, but there is a strong inherent draw to those of the ‘same’ kind. Allowing our brains to relax back into English, share similar stories, jokes and loves, make for a fun and relaxing evening. I put away my cellphone for the evening. No pics. Just be in the moment, eat great food, conversation running rampart and savor the moment.

CristinaA few weeks back, I mentioned us signing up for our Italian classes. Twice a week, we meet at a school, for our class. Our teacher, Cristina, is a lovely young lady, that speaks rapid fire Italian with just a smidge of English. And I mean a really small smidge! Sink or swim as John and I see it. It’s a good review for me, as I have had weekly Skype with Stef for over a year, and definitely a great start for John. The other students are all from Africa, progressing toward their work documents. Brave young men that risked all coming to Italy on a boat with many others. Last night we chatted with two young men from Nigeria, who both have high hopes of making it to the United States for jobs. They are all drawn to New York City, Chicago and LA. John and I admire their courage and determination, and wish them all the best. We will all be together in this class for the next 6 months, as 100 hours are required to complete.

So, Thanksgiving and Black Friday are now behind us. Time to pull out the Santas and start decorating! Get a tree and put up some lights….and to travel to different local towns for Christmas festivities! That can only mean more fun and food 😉

I’ll be back soon. Ciao for now….

 

Food & Friends

Looking back, when we lived in Nelson County, VA, we kept more to ourselves, especially when we lived on the side of a mountain. We had an extremely steep driveway, and it just was off-putting to people. It was either too steep for their vehicles (a long climb on foot) or just too out of the way. So visits were few and far between.  Also, the atmosphere of the deep mountains of the Blue Ridge is reserved in the respect that folks kept to themselves more, enjoying their privacy. We unconsciously adapted that behavior.  Being in Italy and specifically on this farm, just on the edge of a road, makes dropping in or having a party an easy occurrence or event. And we are so enjoying the culture of being social.

So we’ve planned a dinner party. Our first here. Chef John is getting ready! John plans to use the wood oven as well as modern conveniences and he is stoked. We have enough furniture in place to make a small gathering happen. Now in Italy, you will find many of

table and sofa

Creative use of ironing board!

the rooms filled with extra tables and chairs. We laughed over this as we peruse real estate listings. Oh and extra beds everywhere. And I mean everywhere! Italy is all about family and eating, so their interior decorating definitely takes this into consideration. I am, in no way, making fun of the cultural difference,  but enjoying their resourcefulness. We’re not going to follow the Italian  model to its extent for our party, but will be adding small tables to our dining room and hall to accommodate our friends and all the food.

 

set for dinner

We’re ready!

This party evolved out of a promise..a thank you…. to Luigi for all his help getting the house ready for our arrival back at the beginning of October. He specifically asked for BBQ ribs, as he learned that John had just finished up his last job, prior to retirement, at Devils Backbone Brewery. We picked a date for the dinner with Luigi and it grew a bit, asking some of our neighbors and friends. When John and I moved here, we made a firm decision to immerse ourselves among the people of this land, and not resort to the familiarity of expat living. A few of our guests spoke no English, some a bit and one couple was from the same county in Virginia we had just moved from… small world. In the end, we all can laugh together and friendships grow in spite of the language differences. And of course, we’re learning more Italian each day.

 

 

As this is not a food blog, I won’t go into great details on John’s menu, but to say it was a mix of American and Italian elements. And his BBQ ribs were a big hit! He used his wood oven for a number of the dishes and to top off the evening, he and Luigi roasted some chestnuts. This brings me to the fact that our dinner party turned out to be on an Italian holiday; Feast of San Martino, November 11. San Martino was the patron saint of wine and wine making, the 11th signifies when the first sips of vino novello can be tasted. Also to be enjoyed are freshly pressed olive oil and roasted chestnuts. Stef and Ugo brought their new olive oil and Luigi supplied the chestnuts. Just a perfectly wonderful night of friends, food and traditions.

 

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Craziness

Yes, we came here with eyes wide open. Different culture, government, customs are all a part of this jam-packed experience – life. So what kind of craziness are we experiencing and actually laughing over.

poster for italian lessons

Poster in Atri’s Municipal Bulding

How’s this… we sign up for Italian lessons, offered through our region at a very affordable price. BUT hardly any of the employees in that office speak any English to help us. We’re signing up to get better at Italian, but don’t understand enough of it to figure out what someone is saying 100 miles an hour.. Seem a little off to you? Does to John and I and we just laugh. Thankfully, our good (Italian) friend, Stef, called the office and got all the details. Then, trying to locate the class… Google said one thing, or maybe two… here we go again on navigation. Stef got other information when she called the office for us. In the end, we had to stop some young folks on the street to get to the building two blocks over from where we were. It all worked out fine and now we are in Italian classes 2x a week for the next 6 months!

Cellphones and internet. Very cheap here. Rather than doing a two year contract like we had back in Virginia with Verizon, we do a month to month SIM card. Internet is 30 euros a month for 30 GB. Two cellphones a month – 20 euros. Now that works for me. And the internet is SO much faster than what we had back in Nelson County. But, there is a little glitch…our international calling is messed up. Been on the blink for over three weeks and the provider is ‘working on it’. It really shouldn’t be this difficult to fix, but again this is Italy and things just work in a different manner. So we have email, FB, messenger, etc. to stay in contact when needed. Ok, update on the international calling as we stopped by the store yesterday evening. When the support ticket was placed, it was only placed for credits due us, not for the technical issue of the international calling. That is now in place and I’ve been promised it would be working in 24 hours or refund and new provider. Guess I’ll know by this evening… And we are still laughing… Good sign.

Deliveries to our house. Now this issue is a truly perplexing one. The mail lady was able to find us, so no issues with mail deliveries. Common courier is another story. As packages cannot be left here without a signature or a paper handed over to the receiver, a call is made from the courier asking if we are home at a certain time to receive the package. All well in good, but usually the caller is speaking Italian very fast. I’ll try to slow them down, we work out a timing, but it’s our address that throws them. First there is no street sign up at the intersection. Google has not named our road and we don’t think most of the drivers are using Google anyway. Another problem is no one has lived at this address for a long time, so there isn’t a reference for these younger drivers. It’s definitely a learning curve to get them down here, but slowly we are working through it. Some packages make it here, some down the road at the winery. One right now is lost in limbo and trying to get that solved. We’re not laughing as much about this craziness right yet…

But the craziness is just, once again, small stuff. It works itself out. Usually. What we remember mostly about each day are the beautifully unique places we visit, the people we meet and new friendships developing. Today Luigi, our property manager and new friend, stopped by to drop off some paperwork. Along with him was his friend, Massimo. They bring laughter and friendship into our home and we are blessed for it. Yesterday, a friend of Luigi’s, Arturo, delivered us a second load of firewood.  We’re stocking up for winter. Arturo was with his family at the local restaurant for dinner. We were there as well. At the end of our meal, desserts showed up. We remarked to our waitress that she must be delivering them to the wrong table, as we had just finished ours. She said the gentleman (Arturo) at the other table had bought them for us. How could we refuse! New friendships everywhere we turn in this rural community.

This afternoon, we finally drove a few miles up the coast to a beach town – Pineto. I say ‘finally’ as we’ve been living here a bit over a month and not visited the sea yet. The sea is in my blood. My mother’s family was from a seaport in Abruzzo and my father’s family from Naples. Both on the water and the traditions of the sea and seafood were handed down to me. I learned to swim at the Jersey shore with my dad as my instructor. So not to have gotten down to the sea, as close as it is to us here, is just crazy!

pineto beach

The beautiful Adriatic in November

pineto beach deserted

Deserted November beach – enjoy it now – super crowded in summer

So we took a break from the ‘setting up house’ thing and headed to Pineto. Not only does Pineto have a wide beautiful beach, of course deserted at this time of the year, but a shoreline of ancient, commanding pine trees. These imposing sentinels supply deep shade in the summer and today added mystery with the subdued lighting of fall. We were also pleasantly surprised by a food & crafts market along the village’s main road.  I’m just sorry I didn’t come more hungry. 😉

pine trees

 

pineto market red

olives

Olives Galore!

I would say John and I are changing. We can laugh through the craziness. It’s not something we did as readily in the US. Maybe it’s because we realize that we’d miss out on the gift of being here. Or it may be an acceptance that  it’s all part of this amazing life here in Italy.

Not To Forget The Fun Stuff

When you’re no longer a tourist, and you’re setting up a new home, you can get caught up in the minutia of that process. John and I are both from art backgrounds as well as both having OCD. We can spend way too much time playing off each other,  arranging furniture and art pieces. Also, because this old farmhouse hasn’t been lived in for a number of years, we’re discovering appliances, etc. that do not work very well or function at all. Our heating thermostat malfunctioned today, so until we locate another, we’re heating with wood. The wood will heat the water for the radiators as well as hot water for washing. The oven kept tripping the main breaker for the house. John pulled it apart and it looks like a new oven is needed.  Just life stuff like that. Small stuff, really. And we don’t sweat the small stuff with views like these! Time to get outside…

 

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Our view as we drove west to Castelli

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So off we go on a day trip. One of the main reasons we moved to Italy was to experience the culture, arts, food and more of this amazing land. Today we are heading to a village up in the Gran Sasso Mountains, well known for its ceramics (maiolica); the town of Castelli. The drive itself to Castelli was truly a work of art. If we never saw one piece of pottery, we would have still felt that our day was full… full of the beauty of God’s artistic hand. If we draw a straight line from our house to the mountains, most likely the drive would be about 45 minutes. But since roads heading that way aren’t straight (and there aren’t many straight ones in Italy apart from the Autostrada), it took us about 1-1/2 hrs to reach Castelli. That’s factoring in photo stops along the way. But the whole time there and back, as I took an alternate route home, we just marveled at the sights. And sometimes you just need to NOT listen to Google maps. Navigate on instinct.

 

 

We toured the lovely village of Castelli, visited some shops, spent some money and met some talented artists. This time of year, international tourists aren’t many. The village is very quiet and one artist took some time out of his workday to show us part of his process. We got a great recommendation for lunch, ate some great regional food,  and then headed back home.

 

Along the way home, apart from more photo stops, we met up with the same freewheeling horse we saw on our earlier trip up the mountain. Not sure if he was on a ‘prison break’, but no one seemed to be around during the day to say otherwise. Perhaps a normal occurrence. One of my friends in Richmond, VA suggested it may be a gypsy cob. I’ll have to ask around and do some research. He was wearing a bell on his collar.

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Taken through windshield of our car

 

It was great day out and about, with us heading home to some more fun stuff. John has always talked about building himself a wood oven, envisioning delectable pizzas and breads emerging.  So when we first arrived at our house in early October, he was ecstatic to find  we had a wood oven, old as it may be! This weekend, John finally got around to firing it up to determine its quirks and how best to get the most out of it for baking bread and pizza. We’re both very excited. I’m sure he will have it rolling in no time. I can smell bread baking already … well almost. Actually, he roasted up some sausage that he had on hand and made some crostini. Hungry yet? 😉

There’s always lots to share..life here is just one amazing day after the next. But hey, we’ve only been here a month. This will be an fun ride. Thanks for enjoying it with us.

Will catch up with you in a few weeks..ciao for now.

 

Just Life

So here we are starting to navigate through some real-life decisions. Some can be a bit stressful and others just darn confusing. I find myself getting too caught up in overthinking things. Time to take a walk through the vineyards, or watch a sunset or sunrise. Sit down in a field and just be. If you follow me on Facebook, you’ve seen tons of pics of our new home, food and surroundings. Feast for the eyes and all the senses. So just know, when real-life decisions start to crowd me, off I go into the fields, on farm roads, Romeo and Orso in tow. Just allowing the beauty to wash away any little worries that may try to crop up on this gorgeous canvas of life here in Italy.

farm road

So what could be so stressful? We bought a car this week. Well, we put a deposit on a car. The car wasn’t on the lot to drive home. Just one in the show room. We actually had to drive about 20 minutes down the road into a larger city to see  a few or to test drive one. Our car will be ready to pick up in about 3 months. Interesting concept… I’m sure if we had gone to a larger dealership, we’d be in our new car now. But we chose to work with this smaller dealer closer to home. Loyalty to the local businesses or was it just because we like the low key salesman… Either way, we’ll continue driving our rental and hopefully we’ll be surprised with an early Christmas gift. Last time I purchased a new car was probably about 20-25 years ago. This car isn’t expensive, so the stress isn’t related to cost, but I think that some of the stress or just uneasiness comes from the thought ‘what did I miss in the transaction because our business dealings were 90% in Italian’! And what did I buy? Dacia Duster by Renault. Google it.

Another reality check: dogs. Romeo needed a vet. He got an UTI because he rather hold his water than let it go. Most likely flight related. So you’re no longer on vacation when one of  your ‘children’ needs a doctor. We found an amazing vet located about 20 minutes from our house. She and all her staff are exceptional and Romeo is on the road to healing. Small world.. the vet’s brother is in water rescue with his Golden Retriever and hopefully he and I (and our dogs) will meet up soon. And we made a new friend with Dr. Borsini. And as we speak, Orso is struggling a bit with his arthritis. In my enthusiasm to put in lots of miles of trekking through the vineyards, I’ve overwalked the old man. So we’ve backed off on long walks with him, upped his supplements and hoping rest will get him back feeling better. If not, he’ll be meeting the doc real soon.

dr borsini

Dr. Borsini and two of her wonderful technicians. Romeo getting lots of love and great health care. Shown here a week later all healthy. Grazie mille!

 

Then there were bunches of silly things. I’m mixing up Tuesday (martedi) and Wednesday (mercoledi) and showing up at appointments on the wrong day.  Well, they’re both M words and I’m sure it’s happened to other transplants. I’m not paying attention to details and poor dear husband John drove us 2 1/2 hours to a lunch that was 3 days off. Just dumb stuff like that. Can wear you out if you let it get to you. If we find ourselves in a place on the wrong day or time, we just enjoy the moment. Look at something new, find some focaccia to eat and marvel at our surroundings.

So on the not so stressful meter, everywhere we turn, we are meeting and getting to know new people. Many of them are locals, such as Marco at the dealership or Dr. Borsini. But others are foreigners, such as us, buying (or renting) their future retirement homes. Yesterday, we traveled a few hours south into the region of Molise to meet some folks from Britian. Our friend, Angelo, from Palata, organzied a day in Agnone for all of us English speaking people. One couple hoped to move into their new home within the year. They  had been moving furniture and remodeling a lovely townhouse. The other family found their dream home in the countryside and were enjoying the process of remodeling. They have a 10 year plan before they would move permanently. We all toured the famous Campane Marinelli bell foundry, had a stop at a delicious cheese shop and then a lovely al fresco lunch at a local farm.

lunch agnone

Feels like I’m in a movie or travel brochure. Pinch me!

cheese agnone

Wish we had brought a cooler

When we lived in Virginia, I tended to spend a lot of time alone in the woods with my dogs. It’s how I refueled myself. I worked, enjoyed my time with my fellow workers, and would meet up with friends occasionally for a dinner out. But most of my time was spent training my dogs for search and rescue, whether at official trainings almost every weekend or informal ones during the week. Everyday was a training day to keep dogs keen on their jobs or to learn new ones. Maybe a lot of this was, not only enjoying the work that goes into providing a service, but filling up something in my life. Hang with friends that were all dog handlers, and all of us keen to talk about our dogs and where they were in their road to a certification. Now I’m finding time to experience the journey of meeting new people and making new friends in a totally different setting. I do miss SAR and my friends, but I’ve embraced this new chapter in my life. And I’m enjoying it! Part of the entire Italian package, I would say. Stretching me…

But I’ll leave you with another evening view from the house that fills my soul with amazing peace…. ciao for now.

sunset gran sasso

 

 

A Neighbor

How do I even start?… We’re in Italy. We aren’t on vacation technically, but it is, I think , always going to be partly like a vacation. How can it not? It’s gorgeous here and each morning, as I take the dogs for a walk in the vineyards and olive groves, I just laugh out of pure joy. The landscape is stunning. The serenity of the land takes my breath away. I cry for the love of it.

sunset over mountains

the boys homeBut first a bit of a summary of the trip over, then I’ll share the good stuff about our first week here. Checking the dogs in for the flight was my biggest concern, and it was for naught. Nate with Capital Pet Movers met us at United Cargo about 3 hours prior to takeoff. The boys loaded well into their crates and just settled in for their part of the trip. When we landed, Annamaria from Bliss Pet Services took over and had the boys through their vet checks and customs. They were loaded, crates and all, into their van and met us at the house about 4 hours after our arrival. They were smiling and feeling fine. So all four of us are smiling now.

The house was ready for us. As this is an older farmhouse with newer add-ons, things will need fixing and we’re totally aware of that. But it fits us! This week, we’ve been spending time putting our IKEA furniture together. John is a champ at this and it’s going along bit by bit or piece by piece. And look at the before and after shots of the house. Such a big difference! Who could have known..

 

But what I really want to share with you is about people, specifically this time, one neighbor, (H)ugo. (Not sure of his spelling but definitely a silent H.) Hugo is 85 years young, owns and works all the vineyards and olive groves around our house.  He showed up at our place about an hour after we got there and John and I fell in love at first sight, so to speak. He’s generous to a fault. We are laden down with delicious tomatoes, peppers, pears, olives, melons, figs and of course wine! Every day, since our arrival, Hugo shows up to drop off something or to wave us into his Jeep to head off somewhere on the farm or to his home for an aperitif.  He embodies ‘Italy’ to me. But let me say, something very essential was revealed to us, even though I had a basic knowledge of this.

HugoThe need to be able to converse! Yes, you all have heard, just like us, the importance of learning the language of your new country. But it doesn’t hit you until you meet someone like Hugo, who cannot speak a lick of English, what you’ll be missing out on. Thankfully, my lessons with my teacher/friend, Stef, and my conversation friend, Giuliana, have given me basic conversational skills. Hugo and I can communicate. Unfortunately, John is at a loss right now and it has really hit home with him that he needs to get up to speed on a basic level. John had been swamped finishing up our house to sell over the past year and that took up the lion’s share of his time and energy along with working a part-time job. But now, John is ready to learn and I think it will happen faster than he expected. 😉

So, if you are thinking of moving here or even just planning a vacation, figure out what works for you and practice some Italian ahead of time. I still have a VERY long way to go. It was evident when I went to the residency office yesterday and the official there did not speak English and would not simplify her vocabulary on my accou6nt . I just dove in and tried not to be intimidated. Doesn’t mean I understood 70% of what she was saying and she didn’t get frustrated, but we both survived and I understood basically what I needed to do for our next meeting.

A lot of other stuff happened this week, such as getting new phones, wifi at house, locating grocery stores, markets, meeting some lovely folks from Ireland, walking around Atri a bit, eating out at a wonderful local restaurant that is too close to us (LOL), helping the dogs adjust and they love it here; the list goes on and on.

I’ll end for today with some lovely scenery around our house and John’s ever meaningful words taken to heart; ” Helene, we have moved to Italy to slow down, so slow down!” I think I can…and will.

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Time To Fly

It’s time. Time to finish up a few details, relax with a visit from our daughter, Brooke, let the excitement of this move to Italy wash over us and just enjoy this final week here living in the United States. Then board the plane to start the adventure in Abruzzo…

Some loose ends have been tied up these past two weeks. Our shipment made it to our new house without any hiccups in customs. It took about 7 weeks from pickup here in Virginia to delivery at our house in Atri. Not bad, I would say. And from the picture Luigi sent me, it arrived in great condition.  I give upakweship.com a 5 Star rating!

 

And I also ordered a bag of dog food to be there upon our arrival. If you plan to move to Italy and are using Chewy.com for your dog food here in the States, never fear.. zooplus.it is your go-to for all kinds of dog food.

Luigi and crew took on the tough undertaking of cleaning the jungle that had grown up around the house. It’s a work in progress from the pictures below, but much better. John and I are excited to get working on it some more and really have a nice outdoor living space. (Sorry about the blurry images. It was raining and also Luigi took the house shot through his car window. )house cleanedback linebackyard

 

vetThe dogs had their health certificate exams this week. These are needed to fly. Our local vet clinic, which happens to be excellent, have vets certified to complete these exams for international travel. The certificates are then sent FedEx overnight to USDA office in Albany, NY, approved and sent to our pet mover. Hopefully that will all be completed by end of this week. As I said in an early post,  a bit nerve-wracking but under control.

Brooke and I are doing a mother-daughter day at a local spa here in Nelson County. She’s visiting from Santiago, Chile, where she and her husband work (and play) these past 5 years. Yes, big travelers and they love foreign countries, so helped to push John and I out of our USA nest, so to speak. She’ll be heading down to Williamsburg, VA to teach some gown making classes before she heads back to Santiago. Hopefully she and Ryan will visit us in Italy in 2018.

brooke ryan

Brooke & Ryan in Chile

I’m sure there will be small details to take care of up until the flight, but we’re just trying our best to relax and not worry if we forgot any of those. We think all the big details are in place. I’ll catch up with you all once we’re landed and somewhat settled in.  Leave you with this easterly view from our new home. On a clear day, I believe we can see a sliver of the Adriatic Sea. sea direction

 

Goodbyes

I don’t want to say we’re starting a new life and saying goodbye to the old. We’re given one life to live here on Planet Earth and there are many doors we walk through and paths we choose during that one life. But we are saying goodbye to relationships as we have known them, the sense of security living in one country all our lives and of course, the amazing beauty of these Blue Ridge Mountains here in Nelson County.lov gap

With social media, relationships/friendships can continue, just in a different way. I’m thankful for that much. We both have so many friends and acquaintances made here in Nelson County, VA. over that past 16 years. I know I will see and talk to many on Facebook as we navigate our way in Italy. And some may even make the trek to our new home!

We are a few weeks away from our move. Over the past few weeks, we’ve worked through the details of banking, Social Security, Medicare, insurance, etc. My brain screams for rest. Our shipment made it as far as Rotterdam and has been sitting these past two weeks in a customs bonded warehouse. I have no idea when it will shake loose and head to Italy. I’ll do some followup later this week with my contact there. John’s car is sold and mine should happen tomorrow evening. The property in Italy is being cleaned up by Luigi, a tougher job then he ever anticipated. The jungle was very thick. 😉

We’ve said many goodbyes to friends. One of the toughest goodbyes for me is to my friends (my extended family) of my search group, K9 Alert SAR Dogs Inc. I began my volunteer work back in 1991 and jumped on board with this group in 1992. It’s been an amazing time. Many searches, long hours in the field, constant training over these years. Four dogs and through it all, the strongest friendships have developed and stood the test, not so much of time, but of proximity. We all come to the table with quirks in our personalities, but true friendships accepts those, may embrace them or at best transcends those annoying things that are us.

I share a few pics of my friends over a training weekend that took place here in Nelson County. No further words need to be said. I will miss them all dearly. Our home is open to them, no questions asked. One last note: my friend, Pam, reminds me that there are no ‘goodbyes’. Just ‘later’. I’ll hold her to that..