Il Cammino di Celestino

Technically, we did a walk in the Parco Nazionale della Majella. But truthfully it was one of these most challenging, tiring but exhilarating experiences of my adult life. Six stages that allowed us to visit 2 abbeys and 7 hermitages, retracing the steps of Petro Angeleri the hermit who was elected Pope in 1294.

See my previous post ‘Preparation‘ for background information on this cammino, and how the three of us got ready for a week in the mountains of Abruzzo.

This trip was not for the faint of heart or a casual hiker. John, Alex and I carried all of our necessary supplies for the week apart from breakfast and dinner. We also chose to stay at B&Bs and hotels instead of camping. For those younger than us, we would grant the week would not have been as daunting, but as we three are all in our 60s, with me a few months from 70, it was an eye-opener. Deep ravines, canyons, tumbling waters, alpine meadows, precarious ledges were all a part of our week. But don’t get me wrong! It was amazing. To have completed it and to have seen and experienced what we experienced, unforgettable….

Pre-cammino

As we had a lot of running around to do even before starting the cammino , we decided to go up the day before our start and just relax in Sulmona that evening. We did drop off our pets at the kennel, met up with Alex to ride-share from end town (Serramonacesca) and parked our car for the week. We chose the B&B La Dimora, not far from the lovely historic center and the huge imposing Piazza Giuseppe Garibaldi. The accommodations were lovely with our gracious host, Oscar. The location gave us plenty of excellent choices for dinner, time to visit the historic center and a good launching point for tomorrow’s first stage (tappa). We previously had visited Sulmona a few years back, but never took the time required to truly appreciate this city. We really must return someday soon..

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Tappa 1

Sulmona – Badia Morronese – S. Onofrio Al Morrone – Pacentro

Our first day started out with clear skies and a bit warmer than we expected for the first of June. As we decided to leave our car in Sulmona for the week, we added 3 miles to our day by hiking from the B&B to the Abbey Badia Morronese, the beginning of the cammino. The Parco Nazionale della Majella office is situated inside the Abbey, where we received our first stamps, pin and patch, etc. for our backpacks. We were excited! Even a bit nervous. We knew these 6 days would be a challenge, but oh so rewarding. Our first hermitage San Onofrio Al Morrone was just a short hike up the trail from the Abbey where it clings precariously to the side of the mountain over looking Badia, Sulmona and the Valle Peligna. As we found out, most of the hermitages are only open on the weekends, especially so early in the cammino season, so we enjoyed the expansive views, a short respite, before we continued back down and onward to Pacentro. We arrived at our first day’s destination in the blazing afternoon sun, happy with our day’s accomplishment. This evening’s stop, the B&B in Centro a Pacentro, was just what we needed: quiet, lovely views, center of town, gracious hosts. Alberto gave us a most interesting tour of the ‘family museum rooms’ of the B&B, with a long generational history in Pacentro. We had an evening walk around town and then enjoyed a delicious meal before a very sound night’s sleep.

Tappa 2

Pacentro – Passo San Leonardo – Roccacaramanico – Caramanico Terme

Finishing a lavish breakfast, situated on the terrace with a stunning view of the town, we gave our appreciation to Alberto and started up the trail to Passo Leonardo. After a steep climb, we entered the lovely meadows you see in the photo above. This would be one of my favorite days as the views are long and wide and very green this time of year. We stopped at the pass for our lunch and sat back to enjoy the majesty of the mountains. A note about lunches, every day we packed ‘Il pranzo al sacco’, whether a pizza, panino or some other bar type food. First couple of days, we purchased lunch at a bar before we started out. The last few days, we were able to buy lunches at our accommodations. Lunch plus our granola & powerbars, electrolyte gels kept us going until we reached a local bar at the end of each day.

After lunch we headed down from the pass in the direction of Caramanico Terme (a famous town here in Abruzzo for their thermal baths). We stopped at a small lovely hamlet; Roccacaramanico, that is slowly repopulating. Onward to our destination, we passed many free-ranging horses enjoying the mountain pastures. We made a point to stop at a refreshing fountain in the hamlet of San Vittorino, as again, the weather we would find this week, warmer than normal.

We arrived at Caramanico Terme, found Hotel Viola to check-in to our rooms, walked around a bit and had dinner back at the hotel. All the food we ate during this week of cammino was excellent. Some of the accommodations I chose for this week were a bit more basic than others, but all facilities were clean, food always great, and hosts helpful and gracious. I did notice that the hosts were glad to see tourists returning after a long and painful year of Covid.

Tappe 3

Caramanico Terme – S. Onofrio All’Orfento – Decontra

Our third day tested us… our endurance, strength, and for me, a bit of courage needed. I’m not good with ledges – edges of cliffs with too many feet between me and the ground below. But undaunted, we entered this evocative and challenging valley. It is called La Valle Dell’Orfento. We Americans might think of this more of a canyon or gorge! Not sure of the exact terminology but it was definitely a deep fissure in the landscape.

To enter this valley, you are asked to register at the park office at the edge of town. Once we completed that, we headed out onto the trail, skimming the edge of the valley as we worked our way down to the river. The trail undulated through lovely forests, across footbridges, always taking us towards the top of the valley. The sound of the running water tempted us to enter, but we left the water behind for our first challenge of the cammino – Piscia Giumenta: a 100 foot long ledge equipped with a steel rope. The drop-off gave me enough pause to make my palms sweat, but I hung my hiking poles onto my pack and just hand over hand made my way. Phew… challenge accomplished and we continued on. One more river crossing before the hermitage and some slippery rocks took Alex down into the water. Thankfully just wet boots and socks, no major bumps and we climbed a short steep path to the remnants of the hermitage ‘San Onofrio All’Orfento‘. After a short visit, we returned to the valley trail then picked up a route to take us out of the valley to the hamlet of Decontra. It was an intensely hot climb to the hamlet and cold drinks awaited us and cool rooms to relax at Agri Pietrantica. Our lovely host, Marisa, bubbles with enthusiasm for the love of local foods, the heritage of the area, and the opportunity to chat with guests. We had a delicious meal of local traditional foods, but we were so intent on refueling, after our hike, that I forgot to take pictures!

Tappa 4

Decontra – S. Giovanni All’Orfento – Fonte Tettone (Mammarosa)

Today’s tappa was a day for wide open spaces and spectacular views. Today we would have our greatest elevation gain, approximately 3400 ft. We did our best to get an early start to have the toughest part of the climb done during the cooler morning hours. Unfortunately, we didn’t quite make it and the morning stretched on hot under the clear skies until we reached the most beautiful beech forest. The air cooled, we gave a sigh of relief and caught our breath.

The climb moderated and we came to the side trail that would take us down to the hermitage San Giovanni all’Orfento. If you follow any Facebook Abruzzo nature sites, this is the famous hermitage where a belly crawl along a narrow ledge is required to enter the hermitage. John opted to watch our packs, as he and I both started this cammino with compromised knees due to recent injuries. At this point in the trail, a series of narrow steps were carved out of the rock heading down. Alex and I scrambled down and approached the hermitage.

… an exposed passage on an overhanging ledge and a staircase carved onto the rock which, even being the both really short, must be considered as EE difficulty passages (Expert Hikers). The entrance into the hermitage of San Giovanni is via a staircase and then through a narrow horizontal ledge that in the final part must be done belly on the ground. The stretch, sited several meters above the ground and about 40 cm wide ( 16 inches), is not protected, therefore, the entrance is only recommended to people who are adequately equipped and trained.

Parco Nazionale della Majella

Alex did an amazing job skimming along the narrow trail on her belly and entering the small hermitage. Then a shimmy back out to the staircase and great accomplishment goes to her! We all headed back up to the main trail and onward to Rifugio Di Marco and the meadows of the Majelletta. Views to Blockhaus, the Adriatic Sea, the Gran Sasso filled this day. Just too amazing for words….We arrived at Hotel Mammarosa for a relaxing evening and more great food. Good thing I’m hiking a lot as our daily calorie intake is astonishing! The hotel is family run and set up as a ski lodge, but I am sure as COVID restrictions are disappearing, many guests will return also for the local hiking trails.

Tappa 5

Fonte Tettone (Mammarosa) – Eremo San Spirito A Maiella – Eremo San Bartolomeo in Legio – Roccamorice

A day for another well-known and stunningly beautiful hermitage – Eremo San Spirito A Maiella. We began with the trail winding through rocky slopes to eventually enter a peaceful beech forest. The pathway was quiet and soft under foot and eventually we started to lose altitude to arrive at the hermitage. This particular hermitage can also be reached by a hard surface road so, along with it being beautiful to see, it is very accessible. The setting is impressive, set against a rock cliff, this extensive hermitage is a work of art in itself. There is a park kiosk here where we were able to get our cammino passport stamped as well as obtain tickets for a self guided tour.

We entered the church, then worked our way through the complex of rooms & staircases, climbing higher against the cliffside. After exploring and John taking a well deserved ice cream break, we got back on the trail. Along the way, not very far from San Spirito, a man was working with his 6 horses and mules to bring firewood out of the forest. These majestic animals were bred for this work and they truly looked in their element, well fed and handled all by voice commands. We passed on by and continued our trek with the forest opening up to spacious meadows and views of the Gran Sasso.

The access point to our next hermitage, San Bartolomeo in Legio, was via a narrow steep descent into a canyon. There we headed back up to this amazing structure in the cliffside. A chance to cool off, marvel in the construction, share in its beauty with other hikers and families before we started our climb out of the canyon. Our destination this afternoon was a bit further than expected as we had booked a B&B in the town of Roccamorice. Our host there is a very talented sculptor, along with being an excellent restaurateur. The B&B Belvedere was cool and tranquil and our meal excellent. We would be ready for our last stage tomorrow.

Tappa 6

Roccamorice – Eremo San Michele Di Lettomanoppello – Eremo San Onofrio Di Serramonacesca – Abbazi Di San Liberatore

Day 6 has come upon us. Though we are worn out physically and possibly a bit mentally and emotionally as well, we approach the finale with lifted spirits. And it is such a day to experience. An enormous Italian breakfast awaits us, but we are ready to get started. As I had added an additional 3 miles on to yesterday to get to the B&B Roccamorice, we get a lift to the start of the trail. There are two hermitages to see today along our route: San Michele Di Lettomanoppello & San Onofrio Di Serramonacesca. To be able to experience all these many hermitages within a 6 day span has truly been mind boggling. I hope that some of you reading this posting will consider either doing the cammino in its entirety or parts. Never to be forgotten.

One of the biggest surprises of today, which absolutely “wowed’ the three of us, was walking through the expansive area of shepherd huts ( le capanne in pietra a secco) and pasture enclosures of dry stone, hundreds and hundreds of acres. To think of the number of sheep that passed through this area years ago, is extraordinary.

Interesting note about the hermitage San Onofrio De Serramonacesca: the rendition of the saint is clothed only in his long hair. I wish I had room in this post to go into all the spiritual nuances of the hermitages, but I leave that to the professionals on the many sites that can be found on the internet! Just know that there is much not said in this post… but experienced. After a long, precarious, rocky descent, we reached our final destination of the cammino: Abbazia Di San Liberatore in Serramonacesca. Admittedly, we were exhausted at this point.. the 6 days rushing up to us as we toured the cathedral. We had run out of steam and wanted our cammino passports stamped and to receive our certificate ‘Testimonium’. We did get all our stamps required, but our certificate would be mailed to us. We had done it – 6 days chock full of sights and wonders!

Post Cammino

In Serramonacesca, we piled into Alex’s car and headed the hour back to Sulmona. All three of us were way too tired to even think about driving home, so we spent the night at our starting bed and breakfast, B&B La Dimora. Once again, Oscar, our host, gave us a wonderful recommendation for dinner. This time it was for Cantina di Biffi Vineria con Cucina just a short walk from our rooms. Nice change of pace and menu; traditional dishes with a twist. Not to be missed. We will return there most definitely. Monday morning we picked up our pets at the kennel and headed home for a long week of rest and naps 🙂

Thoughts…

Would I do this again… not at my age all within 6 days. There are definitely parts that I would love to revisit and slow down the pace. We didn’t have much time to visit the hamlets and towns as we were averaging 11 tough miles a day with stops. I got us off course a few times, nothing too drastic and we were able to jump back on after a short detour. The weather was definitely hotter than the posted averages, and with John and I not being happy hot weather hikers, it was tough at times. Also the brochure must have been written for a younger age group in regards to difficulties. I lost two toenails as I didn’t continue to check my boot lacings throughout the days with steep descents. A few trails listed as easy would have been treacherous if it had rained. But again, 20 years ago I may have viewed these as less of a challenge. Thankfully, with our few stumbles along the routes and a water slip, we all were able to smile and keep hiking.

What I truly want to share with you is how proud I am of us three and what utterly amazing experiences we had every single day. As you know, if you follow my blog, living here in Abruzzo is a treasured time in our lives. I wanted you, my reader, to have glimpse into this unforgettable week, so you could also feel a part of this, and maybe someday step out on these trails. The depth and width of the beauty of the Majella is not done justice here. It lives in my heart and I encourage you to visit this breathtaking area of Abruzzo.

Having hope for better times keeps us going when we’re living through lockdowns. We can dream and make plans in the hope that restrictions will eventually be lifted. The good news, after many months, is that we can now move throughout our region as well as Italy and beyond. Making plans is a concrete way to exhibit hope, and so I made some…

John and I along with our good friend, Alex, are getting ready to hike the Cammino di Celestino in a few weeks. The plan came together this past winter, always being the optimist that COVID restrictions would be lifted. I thought I’d share some of what we have been doing to prepare for this “chock full of hermitages, amazing scenery, medieval villages, deep valleys, jaw-dropping mountains and of course great food” 90 km 6 day ‘walk’ in the Parco Nazionale della Majella.

Last year, John and I did a week cammino (Cammino dei Briganti, 100 km), also here in Abruzzo, with an outstanding guide, Ercole Wild. It was our first cammino and we thoroughly enjoyed it. And I highly recommend any guided hike with Ercole! He is the type of mountain guide you can trust with you life, but also a fun guy who shares his wealth of knowledge and absolute love of the mountains with you. As this cammino was a group and John and I are more comfortable on vacations with just the two of us, we decided that I would organize a cammino and invite our close friend Alex. Without a professional guide, I took on the responsibility to put this all together. With my search and rescue background and many hours in the woods on trails as well as off trail, I felt confident that I could manage all the details. So in this post, I wish to share some of the different facets of preparation; physical fitness, safety, gear, reservations, etc.

Celestino V and Abruzzo. It is undeniable that the figure of the poor hermit Pietro da Morrone who, at the end of 1200 became Pope with the name of Celestino V, belongs, with all his human and religious life, to the identity heritage of the Abruzzo people. The fresh recognition by UNESCO of Celestinian Forgiveness as an Intangible Heritage of Humanity further increases our responsibility in worthily cultivating the memory of this great person who distinguished himself in life for difficult and often innovative choices for the dictates of the Church of the time ….
The Way is 90 km long. divided into 6 stages…It is entirely covered on foot on the Official Path Network of the Park, following the paths that, in all probability, Pietro used to move from one hermitage to another, from one valley to another…The departure takes place at the Badia Celestiniana in Sulmona and after touching Pacentro, Roccacaramanico, Caramanico Terme, Roccamorice and Lettomanoppello it ends at the Abbey of S. Liberatore a Maiella in the municipality of Serramonacesca…For travelers who undertake the Way, the Charta Peregrini (or Pilgrim’s Credential) is available which can be stamped in the Park Information Centers along the route and which, once completed, entitles you to receive the Celestine Cross, the Testimonium which certifies the entire journey of the stages.

Parco Majella

A few factors led us to choose this particular cammino, apart from the breathtaking scenery and history. It’s close to our house, just a few hours to the start town of Sulmona, right here in our region of Abruzzo. Though it is not a circular route, and car transporting is necessary, it’s such a spectacular cammino, how could we not do it! The length is good for us, just 90 km, so Romeo and Miss Kitty do not have to stay in the kennel too long. We just miss our animals so much that it’s difficult to stay away for more than a week. Another reason we liked this particular cammino, apart from the obvious, is that every evening we would finish in a small village or town where we can book accommodations at a B&B or agriturismo. The list is long on why we are doing this one and it may be something you will consider for the future or maybe you have already done it.

I take good care to have all the information and supplies we will need to make sure we’re safe and not lost: maps, GPS with tracks loaded , potable water locations noted, understanding daily expectations of a section (tappa) length and elevation changes, electrolytes, light source (flashlight or headlamp) etc. There are important things to consider before going into the mountains for 6 days, even thought these can be considered day hikes all strung together. I carry a compass, GPS, as well as printed maps. I also have an app on my phone (View Ranger) for addition location backup. The cammino is well marked, but I always err on the side of being prepared.

In regards to backpacks, we are all going with ultralight ones. It’s important, when walking a cammino with your week’s worth of clothes, etc. on your back, that you keep the weight to a minimum. The gauge is that your pack, with all your stuff apart from food and water, should be about 10% of your body weight. This is so very different from years ago, when backpackers would go out with huge packs containing way too much heavy gear. Times and technology have given us the freedom to go light and I’m loving it. I nailed the 10% after packing and repacking but also I got a bit OC. A number of ultralight hikers do a spreadsheet with everything broken down in grams to lbs and I just love spreadsheets! My categories are Pack (and bag/tent if I was carrying those), Clothes Worn, Clothes Packed, Consumables (Water & Food), Misc, Toiletries, Electronics, Personal ID/cards/cash. John and Alex just go by end weight and shake their heads at me, but I reveled in it! The image below is one page of 4 of my spreadsheet. Weights are in grams per line item and at the very top of the image you can see my weights converted from grams to pounds.

Our packs all range in size around 40L. Alex has an Osprey Eja 38L, John a Quechua Forclaz 40 Air+ and I have an Osprey Tempest 40L. I love my pack and have fiddled with it until I have the straps just right for this load of stuff I’ll be carrying. Boots (Salomon X Ultra 3 Mid GORE-TEX) are now well broken in and they are a dream. Socks that I’ve found work best for my feet are Smartwool and Darn Sock. All my clothes can be washed with me in the shower and dry in a matter of a few hours tops. I’m experimenting with summer weight wool tops, which do not retain odor as other fabrics. I guess my hiking buddies will let me know if this is true. And with these size packs and the expected terrain, it’s always a smart idea to have hiking sticks. They assist you with the weight of the pack, give you stability, protect your knees on long, steep descents and give you the feel of having 4 legs instead of 2 when you head upwards.

Another item I got on board with this time is using dry bags to organize my stuff. They are water resistant and by giving categories to each bag, I can quickly remove what I need with out having to search and repack. All three of us have embraced this great concept. There is much more inside our packs to talk about but it would be a really long post. 🙂

So apart from gear, maps, route preparation, there are room and dinner reservations to be made and sack lunches to reserve (il pranzo al sacco). Of course, you can do this cammino with a tent, but we just needed a vacation with a bit of comfort and pampering. It’s been a long year with restrictions and we are way overdue for a break. Our accommodations range from B&Bs, hotels and an agriturismo, and I used various sites and apps to make reservations. Most of these places have social media presence, and their current postings express the excitement of receiving guests again. The most recent COVID regulations allowed takeway or outside seating. But as of June 1, it appears that COVID restrictions on inside eating will be lifted. Very exciting news. Below are some of the towns & areas we will be staying in.

So it is said that hiking longer hikes and more often doesn’t actually get you in shape for hiking. I think other workouts are needed to make you stronger and flexible, for sure. During this past winter, I set my bike on a training platform and cycled in our dining room. We weren’t allowed have anyone over for dinner so it was a perfect solution for my bike. I wouldn’t say I got a balanced workout (even though I did try with some hand weights) but cycling definitely improved my lower body muscle strength with the added benefit of a good cardio push.

And of course we have been hiking, whether a road trek, some trails around Roccaspinalveti or now back out in other areas. It’s been a few weeks now that I have been hiking with my full pack, adjusting, adding, subtracting. I am as ready as I can be but I know the elevation gains and descents on a few of the sections are going to be tough. A friend of mine in search and rescue had a motto and she also had her license plate saying something like this: It’s Only Walking. And it has always stuck in my mind. This motto will be my mantra when I hit the tougher sections, slow myself down, take smaller strides and just enjoy being out in the mountains with John and Alex. We will have some great stories to share!

Until then wish us safe journey and a spirit of gratitude to enjoy this newly restored freedom.

We are in a lockdown now, just a softer one. Our range of movement went from the whole of Italy and beyond down to just our town. But our town, or municipality, is relatively large, with mountains, forests, rivers; lots of places to exercise, relax and not see another person. So truly our world, even right now, isn’t that small, but rather large and grand.

Movement is allowed around our municipality for necessities and health reasons, exercise being one of those reasons. Bars and restaurants are closed, only allowing takeout (or takeaway as it is called here). John continues to do the shopping in our village and I’m sticking close to home. But let me back up a bit prior to this new lockdown.

Through the months of September and October, John and I enjoyed at least one or two hikes together per week. We kept them within 1- 1/2 hr driving distance from home. After such a hot, dry summer, with treks and hikes difficult by mid-day, I’m in a hiking frenzy. I want to pack in as many experiences as possible before the ice and snow arrive later this year. So I did my research and made a list of some village to village treks as well as some mountain trails. John is a willing partner, but he takes a more relaxed view. If I had my way, we’d hike every day!

We did spend an October day hiking with the group Majexperience, as always a great time. This time we were a bit challenged as it rained all day and the trails and fields turned into a mud bath with footing a bit precarious. But it still was another amazing hike to remember. The leaves were just changing and the temperatures were cool with the rain. The forests were mystical with fog and I hoped that we would see a wolf or fox. We had a break in the weather for a little while and we’re able to eat lunch without getting soaked. Our goal was Il Laghetto di Pietra Cernaia, a small lake at the foot of a monstrous rock outcropping. The day closed with us returning through pastures in the cold rain as evening approached. Definitely a tough day, but invigorating and satisfying.

As October marched on and the numbers of positive cases escalated, we decided it was a safer bet to hike just with each other. Also, I truly hate hiking with a mask on, so hiking with only John was the answer. We found some great places to hike only 1/2 hr from the house; our favorite just outside of Castiglione Messer Marino in the area of Oasi Naturale Abetina di Selva Grande. The views are stunning, the wind turbines enormous, and a beautiful valley to complete the loop.

And just before this new lockdown came into force, I got in two separate hikes, one with girlfriends and the other with John, to Monte Pallano with its daunting Megalithic Wall and breathtaking views of the Majella. Both days had perfect weather, far-reaching views to the Majella and Adriatic, and stirring remains of civilizations and inhabitants long gone.

Now that I think about it, it was a big deal for me to hike with lady friends. I’m either alone, hiking with John, or sometimes in a larger group, most likely strangers with a guide. But hiking with Alex and Maria was a relaxing time; time for those conversations and observations that come naturally with friends. I hope for many more trails with these ladies. 🙂

So what else have we been doing besides hiking? We did have our rental apartment, Casa Serre, to take care of as we actually had guests this summer and fall. We opened the apartment, after the spring lockdown and had guests in July and August, to our surprise. We added Self Check-in as well as got onboard with Airbnb’s Enhanced Clean program. But after the month of August, when European holidays end, it got quiet for us. We did have some lovely guests from Belgium in October, just before we closed for the season. We will be ready to reopen in April, hoping that 2021 will be a safer and healthier year.

John had a few projects, one being a retaining wall between us and our neighbor’s field. The wall had been cracking substantially due to moving water. My tool man, as always, had a plan and the wall is now stable after a lot of cement work. We also decided to open a doorway between our two small bedrooms in our home, creating a suite. John will be adding French doors between the two, so if we have family or friends visiting, we have extra room for them if needed.

And Fall is of course harvest time here, whether it’s tomatoes, peppers, corn, olives, grapes…. the list is long. I love seeing all our neighbors enjoying each others company as they collectively work together. It’s been a tough time for everyone, especially when large gatherings amongst family and friends are on hold now. It will be an amazing day when we can all get back to having fun with our neighbors, friends and family!

One final hike to share with you today and I thank you for your indulgence. I am always so blown away by the land we live in. It is everchanging depending on the weather and lighting and I just cant’ get enough. This hike was just before lockdown and we were ‘legal’. We were in our municipality and felt like we were on another adventure, locating trails that all the local hunters already know about. But for us, it was a new discovery 🙂 We started (and ended) at SAN PIETRO DEGLI ALPINI A ROCCASPINALVETI, the small chiesetta (church) on the mountain. Up the mountain, along farm roads and fields below the wind towers, down to the hamlet of Olmi, through the woods to return up the mountain to the church. The hike was filled with long views, stunning fall colors, discoveries of ancient farmsteads and homes and the development of the Valle del Treste trail network. We plan to head back to this area to discover more.

As always, we wish you all good health, a time to find blessings even during these unsettling months, hope for some normality in the New Year, a visit to Abruzzo and maybe even to Roccaspinalveti in 2021. I leave you with a sweet, heart-tugging picture of Romeo, our dear boy, now 9 years old. He can no longer handle the long hikes, but we do get him out for neighborhood walks and sometimes a short one up the mountain. Here he is greeting us upon our return from one of our hikes. Until next time….

Do you ever wish that you had tried something much earlier in life? It comes to mind more often now that we are older and we’re slower to recover from certain physical activities. But maybe this is the time of our lives when we should start. It jumbles around in my brain. The outcome was that our first cammino left me wanting more! An accomplishment and an experience to always remember, it has given me the desire to continue searching out the many paths here in Italy.

Probably the most famous cammino (the Italian spelling for ‘the way’) is The Camino de Santiago, Spain (the Way of St. James), with its many alternate routes. [The most popular route (which gets very crowded in mid-summer) is the Camino Francés which stretches 780 km (nearly 500 miles) from St. Jean-Pied-du-Port near Biarritz in France to Santiago, Spain. The Pilgrimage Routes to Santiago de Compostela] Do you know the film ‘The Way‘ (Starring: Martin Sheen, Emilio Estevez)? John and I have seen it at least 10x. We became hooked on the essence of the movie as well as the concept of travelling on foot from town to town, being able to experience the beauty of the trails and roads with a final destination in mind. As the average time to complete this cammino is about 35+ days, it would mean being apart from our dear dog, Romeo, much too long a time for all of us. We decided to look closer to our area of Italy for a cammino (or partial one) that we could accomplish in about 6-8 days.

Here in Abruzzo, there are a number of cammini traversing this mountainous region, such as Cammino dei Briganti (100 km, the one we just completed), Cammino di San Tommaso (316 km) , Cammino della Pace (470 km) and others. The Cammino dei Briganti is a ring course of 7 stages or tappe that traverses the mountainous regional boundary of Abruzzo and Lazio. The Cammino di San Tommaso starts in Rome (Lazio) and ends in Ortona (Abruzzo), on the Adriatic Sea. The Cammino Della Pace starts in L’Aquila (capital of Abruzzo ) and ends on the Gargano Peninsula (the spur of the boot of Italy) of the Puglia region. Hiking any parts of these are all on my radar. Some cammini are about a spiritual trek, others historical or cultural. The one we choose this year would follow the routes that the Briganti travelled in this region.

John and I agreed our first cammino would be with a guide and group. Not ever doing one on our own, we wanted to see what the planning entailed, not only for each stage, but sleeping accommodations, meals, etc. Spending 7 days with a group hiking, touring and eating together was going to be a new experience for John and I. When we take vacations, it’s normally just the two of us heading out to locations not frequently travelled by many tourists. We were going to be hiking with about 8 others. 🙂 What would the week hold for us?

Ercole and Appennino Slow tour group partnered for our cammino. Appennino Slow handled the booking of accommodations, luggage transport and collection of all fees. Ercole did all the day-to- day detail work as well as guide us, inform us, teach us, share his prose, plan meals… making the week an experience to remember always. You may be thinking at this point…’luggage transport’? This cammino we did not carry all our total needs, just our daily items in our backpacks. Each person was allowed one small duffle or piece of luggage that was transported to each accommodation daily. A bit of a luxury for us but certainly lightens the backpack a little. 😉 Next cammino we plan on backpacking everything we need for the entire trip.

This amazing week was chock full of wonders; breathtaking scenery, challenging trails and scenic roads, quaint villages, lovely accommodations and delicious food. The list is long. John and I hike well together; we are matched for stamina and style and we enjoy our time together on the trail or relaxing off. Ercole was inspiring and fun to get to know. He is friends with many people in this area, as he lives not very far from the route. This opened the door to meeting locals along the way that added a special flavor to the experience. I highly recommend that you hike with him someday!

And what about us hiking with a group? Truth be told, at the onset, it was a struggle for John and I. But as the week unfolded and we got to know the others a bit better, we could enjoy the diversity. John ended up being the only male hiker along with Ercole, but he dove in and had fun. Apart from us and Ercole, everyone else had met on another cammino in northern Italy a year ago. Italian was the predominate language spoken for the week, but most everyone knew a smattering of English. Each hiker had his or her individual strengths and experience, but also there were challenges we all had to meet. Whether hiking 22 km in hot humid weather, ascending or descending a trail outside one’s comfort zone, we all took pleasure from our accomplishments together.

Would I do another group cammino in the future with strangers, spending every meal and all my trail time together? In support , there was a strong sense of the daily accomplishments as a group…. To cheer one on when the going got tough ..To take the time to get to know someone and who they are off the trail. And to laugh at the end of the day over amazing food…..we all could smile at that. But on the flip side, for me as well as John, we would like to take more time in the villages that we passed through and to spend more quiet moments as we hiked. So, for us, future walks will be with each other and a few close friends.

With 2021 in our sights, I’m already researching other cammini (or partial ones) here in Abruzzo. John is just shaking his head…. he’s not ready to plan that far in advance. And how did we fare after we returned home? Believe me, the desire to do anything wasn’t very overwhelming. There weren’t aches or pains, but there was a serious lack of energy in both of us for about a week or so…. So a well deserved rest and on to other trails and projects.

The finale…. receiving our certificates of completion back at Sante Marie and a photo op with Ercole.. Just a grand week! We hope that you will also enjoy such an experience someday soon here in Abruzzo if not Italy!

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Another hot and dry summer has overtaken us. When the heat is blasting outside, we relax in a darkened, cool house. Then the weather relents a bit and we’re out hiking or working in our yard. No masks needed on the trail or social distancing when it’s just John and I. 😉

As I mentioned last summer, most houses are not air-conditioned here. Walls are thick (stone, brick or block) and windows have shutters (rolldown or hinged). We roll down our shutters just at dawn and they stay down until the sun has progressed low in the evening sky. It’s a bit claustrophobic in such a darkened house but definitely much cooler and how we manage 90+F days. We nap, binge Netflix and Prime, look at social media and eat very lightly. There’s this scene in the movie ‘Hidalgo’ where the actor Omar Sharif, playing a Bedouin sheikh, commands his servants to lift the sides of his tent and let in the light at the end of the day. I feel like I’m in this movie every evening, when we lift the shutters. It somehow makes that daily event even more anticipated and a bit thrilling. 🙂

This year, John put in a small garden out back and it’s gone ballistic. Just a few varieties of tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers and onions, but we are happily overwhelmed. I am very proud of him and love the warm tomatoes I can grab at anytime. He uses the lawnmower clippings for mulch, an organic fertilizer that we use for the olive trees, and a soaker hose when watering is absolutely necessary. The plants are now about 9 feet tall and producing all the way to the tops!

There is a memory my mother shared with me when I was old enough to understand. One day, when I was a very young toddler, she and my dad couldn’t find me. Pretty scary I am sure for them. They searched inside and outside the house. Dad had a vegetable garden out back then and there I was found with tomato smeared all over my face and body. I was a very happy baby and the love story, for tomatoes handpicked and warm, continues to this day.

Our tomatoes came in early as the garden was in a very protected and sunny location. Many of our neighbors got to enjoy our abundance until theirs where ready. Now we’re eating, eating, eating…freezing some and eating more and more…

Since lockdown, which ended on May 4th, we’ve been hiking or trekking a few times every week, temperatures permitting. It’s just not fun when it gets over 31C/ 88F, so we pick and choose our days. When we hike with a group, it is usually Majexperience. We really like their guides and tours located in the Majella National Park, with most of their hikes within 1- 1/2 hours from home. This hike below was to the summit of Monte Porrara (2137 m/7011 ft). It was an amazing hike!! It was challenging but oh so very worth it! A must when you visit the Majella mountains… medium+ level hike.

Another tour/hike with Majexperience. A recently reopened Gole di Fara San Marino with the Abbey ‘L’Abbazia Benedettina di San Martino in Valle’. Mysterious and very moving… some others have done this in the evening after sunset where lighting is provided… Just beautiful. Ours was a day hike, about 6 miles out and back. A popular area so plan your hike during the week or early in the morning if a weekend. Very family friendly!

Apart from these group hikes, John and I have been heading out to new towns in southern Abruzzo and northern Molise. Three Abruzzesse towns we trekked between recently were Casalbordino, Pollutri & Scerni (about 50 minutes from our house and a bit closer to the sea.) The architecture is lovely, with each town having a medieval historic center, and the verdant valleys boast endless vineyards and olive groves. We will definitely return to this area in cooler fall weather to better appreciate the endless beauty.

Of the three towns, I like the atmosphere of Pollutri the best. It’s relatively small with about 2200 inhabitants, narrow streets lined with historic townhouses, ancient palaces and churches, beautiful valley and mountain views, friendly people around a couple of large piazzas and some inviting restaurants we’d like to try out.

The other two towns were equally interesting with the much larger town of Casalbordino, 6000 inhabitants and Scerni, about 3600. These two towns also have great views of the Adriatic Sea and the Majella mountains. I’ll give them more of my time in the fall, as we missed some special places, such as the Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Miracoli in Casalbordino and the Chiesa di San Panfilo in Scerni.

There are many more hikes and treks we have taken so far this summer, but we have an ultimate goal coming up next week… Cammino dei Briganti. We will be sure to share some experiences, most likely when we return home. I’m going to do my best to stay off social media and only use my cellphone for those unforgettable images. Sometimes I need to remember to stay in the present and enjoy the experience, without being behind my camera!

But always, I like to leave you with an image from here in Abruzzo. This one was taken about a 5 minute walk from our house here in the neighborhood Serre . Until next time…..

Restrictions are slowly easing here in Italy. There are more smiles to be seen around town and folks are getting outdoors, finally! It doesn’t mean we can recommence hugging and kissing all our relatives and friends, but at least we can visit. A weight is lifting off our hearts and shoulders.

A few days before Phase 2 (as it’s called here..coming out of lockdown of 8 weeks), I was chomping at the bit to get hiking. That’s all I could think about! My pack was loaded, clothes and boots ready, food planned. What a mess I was. John was almost as eager, and when May 4 arrived, we headed to the top of the mountain behind Roccaspinalveti to the wind turbines. The weather was outstanding. The sky must have gotten bluer during the 8 weeks and the turbines had to be whiter. Truly!

We’ve been crazy to get outside this spring, not only because of the long lockdown, but the weather this year has been gorgeous; somewhat dry for agriculture but for hiking and trekking, just perfect. So now, each week we head out to do a circuit around a local town, using the Valle del Triste trail system. A great local organization out of Palmoli that has spent numerous hours and hard labor (of love) to put this project into motion. You can download their map that shows all the interconnecting trails. They are well-marked with wooden arrows and red & white paint. We’ve walked where ancient cultures tred and we’re awed..

The past few weeks, we’ve done circuits around the stunning town of San Buono and also the medieval town of Furci, all just about 20 minutes or so from our house. And just a couple of days ago, we hiked around Liscia. Here are a few pics from those circuits. I am in my happy place.

Being outside is something both John and I have always loved, whether together or separately. We spent many years out in the wood while we lived in the US; I with search and rescue and John as an avid hunter. Being here in the Frentani Mountains, we are mesmerized daily by the big sky…the wide open vistas. But a confession… not only do we like to get outside, but John and I are gear junkies.. My issue is collecting backpacks and John loves hiking clothes and boots. We’ve tried to tame it down a bit now that we’re retired, but with sites like TrekkInn and Decathlon (as well as a store opening up only 40 minutes from us!), we have to slap our hands a lot when we even think of adding something to the ‘cart’. But truthfully, we are also preparing for some longer hikes here in Abruzzo – this August a 7 day hike (100 km) – Il Cammino dei Briganti. We’re passing on camping out in tents and going for staying in hostels and B&Bs. This first cammino will be with a tour group (Appennino Slow) and well-known and loved mountain guide, Ercole Wild of Montagne Selvagge. Next year, our plans are for a longer cammino, 16 days 316 km , Cammino Di San Tommaso. This one we plan to do on our own and possibly lengthen the time to finish by visiting some of the towns along the way for an extra night or two. Will keep you posted on both these hikes.

Apart from getting out into the woods and mountains, we’ve been setting up our holiday rental for this season. The restrictions should lift this June 3, allowing people to visit from not only other regions of Italy, but from the rest of Europe. I unpacked all the linens, blankets and soft goods that had stayed clean and safe in plastic containers and bags over the winter, and we are open for business this June 1. As we are all trying to do the best for our guests in regards to safety and cleanliness, we have added a self check-in key lock-box, check-in instructions and disinfecting protocol. We’re resigned to the fact that this season will be quiet at best but we have big hopes for 2021. Still we’ve added some improvements both inside and out.

Also keeping me busy have been my Italian lessons. The past year or so, John and I have been enrolled in online courses ‘From Zero to Italian’ with Manu of www.italymadeeasy.com. Many folks have asked me what program I use. I’ve tried a number of online free language portals, private lessons, Italian government lessons, phone apps and I have to say, apart from living in a town where 98% of the populous speaks dialect or Italian and we get Italian ‘lessons’ on the fly, Manu’s style of teaching works for me! You can check out some of his free videos, etc. to get a feel for his teaching style. When I signed up, I decided to start back at the basic beginners and it has been invaluable to me.The courses are at ones’ own pace, which works well for me at this time of my life. And thankfully, I just passed my second course’s final exam and I’m moving up a level!

So apart from not being able to have big family and friends gathering, hugging, kissing and the such with them as well, we feel we are back on track in our lives. Following the rules means wearing a mask when in close proximity to others and distancing oneself as well. Restaurants are doing takeout and the two here in Rocca are reopening with spaced seating. But all in all we feel blessed and very thankful.

As always, I’d like to leave you with something beautiful ….. here in Roccaspinalveti. Please take good care of you and your family and we wish you all good health!