Not To Forget The Fun Stuff

When you’re no longer a tourist, and you’re setting up a new home, you can get caught up in the minutia of that process. John and I are both from art backgrounds as well as both having OCD. We can spend way too much time playing off each other,  arranging furniture and art pieces. Also, because this old farmhouse hasn’t been lived in for a number of years, we’re discovering appliances, etc. that do not work very well or function at all. Our heating thermostat malfunctioned today, so until we locate another, we’re heating with wood. The wood will heat the water for the radiators as well as hot water for washing. The oven kept tripping the main breaker for the house. John pulled it apart and it looks like a new oven is needed.  Just life stuff like that. Small stuff, really. And we don’t sweat the small stuff with views like these! Time to get outside…

 

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Our view as we drove west to Castelli

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So off we go on a day trip. One of the main reasons we moved to Italy was to experience the culture, arts, food and more of this amazing land. Today we are heading to a village up in the Gran Sasso Mountains, well known for its ceramics (maiolica); the town of Castelli. The drive itself to Castelli was truly a work of art. If we never saw one piece of pottery, we would have still felt that our day was full… full of the beauty of God’s artistic hand. If we draw a straight line from our house to the mountains, most likely the drive would be about 45 minutes. But since roads heading that way aren’t straight (and there aren’t many straight ones in Italy apart from the Autostrada), it took us about 1-1/2 hrs to reach Castelli. That’s factoring in photo stops along the way. But the whole time there and back, as I took an alternate route home, we just marveled at the sights. And sometimes you just need to NOT listen to Google maps. Navigate on instinct.

 

 

We toured the lovely village of Castelli, visited some shops, spent some money and met some talented artists. This time of year, international tourists aren’t many. The village is very quiet and one artist took some time out of his workday to show us part of his process. We got a great recommendation for lunch, ate some great regional food,  and then headed back home.

 

Along the way home, apart from more photo stops, we met up with the same freewheeling horse we saw on our earlier trip up the mountain. Not sure if he was on a ‘prison break’, but no one seemed to be around during the day to say otherwise. Perhaps a normal occurrence. One of my friends in Richmond, VA suggested it may be a gypsy cob. I’ll have to ask around and do some research. He was wearing a bell on his collar.

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Taken through windshield of our car

 

It was great day out and about, with us heading home to some more fun stuff. John has always talked about building himself a wood oven, envisioning delectable pizzas and breads emerging.  So when we first arrived at our house in early October, he was ecstatic to find  we had a wood oven, old as it may be! This weekend, John finally got around to firing it up to determine its quirks and how best to get the most out of it for baking bread and pizza. We’re both very excited. I’m sure he will have it rolling in no time. I can smell bread baking already … well almost. Actually, he roasted up some sausage that he had on hand and made some crostini. Hungry yet? 😉

There’s always lots to share..life here is just one amazing day after the next. But hey, we’ve only been here a month. This will be an fun ride. Thanks for enjoying it with us.

Will catch up with you in a few weeks..ciao for now.

 

Just Life

So here we are starting to navigate through some real-life decisions. Some can be a bit stressful and others just darn confusing. I find myself getting too caught up in overthinking things. Time to take a walk through the vineyards, or watch a sunset or sunrise. Sit down in a field and just be. If you follow me on Facebook, you’ve seen tons of pics of our new home, food and surroundings. Feast for the eyes and all the senses. So just know, when real-life decisions start to crowd me, off I go into the fields, on farm roads, Romeo and Orso in tow. Just allowing the beauty to wash away any little worries that may try to crop up on this gorgeous canvas of life here in Italy.

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So what could be so stressful? We bought a car this week. Well, we put a deposit on a car. The car wasn’t on the lot to drive home. Just one in the show room. We actually had to drive about 20 minutes down the road into a larger city to see  a few or to test drive one. Our car will be ready to pick up in about 3 months. Interesting concept… I’m sure if we had gone to a larger dealership, we’d be in our new car now. But we chose to work with this smaller dealer closer to home. Loyalty to the local businesses or was it just because we like the low key salesman… Either way, we’ll continue driving our rental and hopefully we’ll be surprised with an early Christmas gift. Last time I purchased a new car was probably about 20-25 years ago. This car isn’t expensive, so the stress isn’t related to cost, but I think that some of the stress or just uneasiness comes from the thought ‘what did I miss in the transaction because our business dealings were 90% in Italian’! And what did I buy? Dacia Duster by Renault. Google it.

Another reality check: dogs. Romeo needed a vet. He got an UTI because he rather hold his water than let it go. Most likely flight related. So you’re no longer on vacation when one of  your ‘children’ needs a doctor. We found an amazing vet located about 20 minutes from our house. She and all her staff are exceptional and Romeo is on the road to healing. Small world.. the vet’s brother is in water rescue with his Golden Retriever and hopefully he and I (and our dogs) will meet up soon. And we made a new friend with Dr. Borsini. And as we speak, Orso is struggling a bit with his arthritis. In my enthusiasm to put in lots of miles of trekking through the vineyards, I’ve overwalked the old man. So we’ve backed off on long walks with him, upped his supplements and hoping rest will get him back feeling better. If not, he’ll be meeting the doc real soon.

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Dr. Borsini and two of her wonderful technicians. Romeo getting lots of love and great health care. Shown here a week later all healthy. Grazie mille!

 

Then there were bunches of silly things. I’m mixing up Tuesday (martedi) and Wednesday (mercoledi) and showing up at appointments on the wrong day.  Well, they’re both M words and I’m sure it’s happened to other transplants. I’m not paying attention to details and poor dear husband John drove us 2 1/2 hours to a lunch that was 3 days off. Just dumb stuff like that. Can wear you out if you let it get to you. If we find ourselves in a place on the wrong day or time, we just enjoy the moment. Look at something new, find some focaccia to eat and marvel at our surroundings.

So on the not so stressful meter, everywhere we turn, we are meeting and getting to know new people. Many of them are locals, such as Marco at the dealership or Dr. Borsini. But others are foreigners, such as us, buying (or renting) their future retirement homes. Yesterday, we traveled a few hours south into the region of Molise to meet some folks from Britian. Our friend, Angelo, from Palata, organzied a day in Agnone for all of us English speaking people. One couple hoped to move into their new home within the year. They  had been moving furniture and remodeling a lovely townhouse. The other family found their dream home in the countryside and were enjoying the process of remodeling. They have a 10 year plan before they would move permanently. We all toured the famous Campane Marinelli bell foundry, had a stop at a delicious cheese shop and then a lovely al fresco lunch at a local farm.

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Feels like I’m in a movie or travel brochure. Pinch me!

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Wish we had brought a cooler

When we lived in Virginia, I tended to spend a lot of time alone in the woods with my dogs. It’s how I refueled myself. I worked, enjoyed my time with my fellow workers, and would meet up with friends occasionally for a dinner out. But most of my time was spent training my dogs for search and rescue, whether at official trainings almost every weekend or informal ones during the week. Everyday was a training day to keep dogs keen on their jobs or to learn new ones. Maybe a lot of this was, not only enjoying the work that goes into providing a service, but filling up something in my life. Hang with friends that were all dog handlers, and all of us keen to talk about our dogs and where they were in their road to a certification. Now I’m finding time to experience the journey of meeting new people and making new friends in a totally different setting. I do miss SAR and my friends, but I’ve embraced this new chapter in my life. And I’m enjoying it! Part of the entire Italian package, I would say. Stretching me…

But I’ll leave you with another evening view from the house that fills my soul with amazing peace…. ciao for now.

sunset gran sasso

 

 

A Neighbor

How do I even start?… We’re in Italy. We aren’t on vacation technically, but it is, I think , always going to be partly like a vacation. How can it not? It’s gorgeous here and each morning, as I take the dogs for a walk in the vineyards and olive groves, I just laugh out of pure joy. The landscape is stunning. The serenity of the land takes my breath away. I cry for the love of it.

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the boys homeBut first a bit of a summary of the trip over, then I’ll share the good stuff about our first week here. Checking the dogs in for the flight was my biggest concern, and it was for naught. Nate with Capital Pet Movers met us at United Cargo about 3 hours prior to takeoff. The boys loaded well into their crates and just settled in for their part of the trip. When we landed, Annamaria from Bliss Pet Services took over and had the boys through their vet checks and customs. They were loaded, crates and all, into their van and met us at the house about 4 hours after our arrival. They were smiling and feeling fine. So all four of us are smiling now.

The house was ready for us. As this is an older farmhouse with newer add-ons, things will need fixing and we’re totally aware of that. But it fits us! This week, we’ve been spending time putting our IKEA furniture together. John is a champ at this and it’s going along bit by bit or piece by piece. And look at the before and after shots of the house. Such a big difference! Who could have known..

 

But what I really want to share with you is about people, specifically this time, one neighbor, (H)ugo. (Not sure of his spelling but definitely a silent H.) Hugo is 85 years young, owns and works all the vineyards and olive groves around our house.  He showed up at our place about an hour after we got there and John and I fell in love at first sight, so to speak. He’s generous to a fault. We are laden down with delicious tomatoes, peppers, pears, olives, melons, figs and of course wine! Every day, since our arrival, Hugo shows up to drop off something or to wave us into his Jeep to head off somewhere on the farm or to his home for an aperitif.  He embodies ‘Italy’ to me. But let me say, something very essential was revealed to us, even though I had a basic knowledge of this.

HugoThe need to be able to converse! Yes, you all have heard, just like us, the importance of learning the language of your new country. But it doesn’t hit you until you meet someone like Hugo, who cannot speak a lick of English, what you’ll be missing out on. Thankfully, my lessons with my teacher/friend, Stef, and my conversation friend, Giuliana, have given me basic conversational skills. Hugo and I can communicate. Unfortunately, John is at a loss right now and it has really hit home with him that he needs to get up to speed on a basic level. John had been swamped finishing up our house to sell over the past year and that took up the lion’s share of his time and energy along with working a part-time job. But now, John is ready to learn and I think it will happen faster than he expected. 😉

So, if you are thinking of moving here or even just planning a vacation, figure out what works for you and practice some Italian ahead of time. I still have a VERY long way to go. It was evident when I went to the residency office yesterday and the official there did not speak English and would not simplify her vocabulary on my accou6nt . I just dove in and tried not to be intimidated. Doesn’t mean I understood 70% of what she was saying and she didn’t get frustrated, but we both survived and I understood basically what I needed to do for our next meeting.

A lot of other stuff happened this week, such as getting new phones, wifi at house, locating grocery stores, markets, meeting some lovely folks from Ireland, walking around Atri a bit, eating out at a wonderful local restaurant that is too close to us (LOL), helping the dogs adjust and they love it here; the list goes on and on.

I’ll end for today with some lovely scenery around our house and John’s ever meaningful words taken to heart; ” Helene, we have moved to Italy to slow down, so slow down!” I think I can…and will.

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A Find

In search and rescue, something I’ve done for the past 25+ years, you hope to find the person missing. When you work with search dogs, it’s called making the ‘find’. So I loosely use that term here… we made the find of a great rental. Well, at this point in time, it looks pretty exciting and hopeful. One never truly knows until in the midst of the experience.

This unfurnished rental has been unoccupied for awhile. We’re not sure how long, but from the past and current photos you can get an idea that things have gotten a bit overgrown.

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Most likely 5+ years ago

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Our First View! A bit scary…

So you look at this and say “how could you even consider it”? It all started with the drive down into the valley. This house sits on a saddle between Atri and Citta Sant’Angelo, among wheat fields, vineyards and olive groves. As our property manager, Luigi, drove us down off the main country road, we were literally stunned by the view.

view from houseLooming to our right (the west) were mountains of the Gran Sasso and to our left the Adriatic Sea. We were goners from the get-go.  The house could have been a chicken coop (well not quite, but you get my drift) and we would make do with a bit of fixing up.

As we continued down into the valley, we saw some unusual formations in the hillside. We learned these formations are The Badlands of Atri, in Italian – Calanchi, and protected in this  preserve: Riserva Naturale dei Calanchi di Atri. Definitely on our list to see when we get settled in. So add this to the stunning views, we didn’t have a chance.

Luigi pointed ahead to the saddle and said “see that house surrounded by trees in the field”, as we pass a few small houses close to the road. He’s pointing to a scene out of some movie, I am sure. This can’t be real.  John and I looked at each other and we both knew at that moment this was going to be the house we’d rent. As we arrived, we were met by a jungle effect. Definitely some severe trimming needed. But entering the house and walking about two feet into the entrance, we said “yes”. The interior had been upgraded, great floors, relatively freshly painted walls, good size rooms. Kitchen a bit on the small side, but we found the ‘ham room’ could be turned into a pantry. We’d make do. I immediately shook hands with Luigi as he had a friend interested in the house. No, not some ploy to get us to sign on the dotted line. lol …He would have the jungle cut back, house freshly cleaned, boiler serviced, make sure all in working order, oh add in a washing machine, receive our shipment, go to IKEA for us..The list goes on and on.

After checking out the interior, we went back outside to take in the views, see the ground floor of the house, the outbuildings and walk through our neighbor’s vineyard. The ground floor of the house has a stable where milk cows lived. Also the boiler and some mechanical rooms. We didn’t take a tour of this part yet. The property is just a few acres as the owner sold off the rest to the farmer. It is fenced in with a gate so the dogs have an instant yard for them to patrol.

So John is in chef heaven. Our closest neighbor owns a certified organic farm of grapes, olives and produce :  Azienda Agricola Cirelli, with a cantina just down the road from us.

John checking out the neighbor’s vineyard.

We haven’t even met him yet and he told his friend, Luigi, we could have all the wine, olive oil and produce we’d like. We are feeling very welcomed already.

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Luigi and John head back to the house, enjoying the views

Finding this house and our two property managers, Anna & Luigi, have made this transition in our lives a great deal smoother. We know there will be bumps in the road. There always are on Planet Earth. Some will be familiar and some not so. We’re in a strange land but again, a familiar land. Land of my Italian family. Everyone reminds us to keep our eyes wide open, be adaptable and flexible. That won’t stop the tough stuff from happening, but with good friends there for support and guidance, we can make it through and have a blast along the way.

For The Love of Family

A journey; a bit daunting, a little scary but full of exciting possibilities. Family heritage and just an outright love of Italy and all that encompasses has led us to this exciting beginning. Family, as many of you already know, can be crazy, dysfunctional, loud, obnoxious, but also loving, caring and strong.

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My father’s family – Brooklyn 1900’s

Family can unintentionally instill a drive inside us. This drive manifested itself in me as a pride of my heritage of being Italian. What ensued was me obtaining my dual citizenship and then the decision was made to retire in Italy.  The blog will be that story of my journey personally along with my husband, John, as we make the move and navigate our life in Italy. And what is this about navigation? Please humor me as I was in search and rescue in the USA for over 25 year. Map, compass, GPS all became tools to help me get to where I needed to go. But know this about John and I; we have a higher compass that we trust. So here we go together as we navigate through this journey with eyes wide open. Well at least most of the time. I’m a realist.