Do you ever wish that you had tried something much earlier in life? It comes to mind more often now that we are older and we’re slower to recover from certain physical activities. But maybe this is the time of our lives when we should start. It jumbles around in my brain. The outcome was that our first cammino left me wanting more! An accomplishment and an experience to always remember, it has given me the desire to continue searching out the many paths here in Italy.

Probably the most famous cammino (the Italian spelling for ‘the way’) is The Camino de Santiago, Spain (the Way of St. James), with its many alternate routes. [The most popular route (which gets very crowded in mid-summer) is the Camino Francés which stretches 780 km (nearly 500 miles) from St. Jean-Pied-du-Port near Biarritz in France to Santiago, Spain. The Pilgrimage Routes to Santiago de Compostela] Do you know the film ‘The Way‘ (Starring: Martin Sheen, Emilio Estevez)? John and I have seen it at least 10x. We became hooked on the essence of the movie as well as the concept of travelling on foot from town to town, being able to experience the beauty of the trails and roads with a final destination in mind. As the average time to complete this cammino is about 35+ days, it would mean being apart from our dear dog, Romeo, much too long a time for all of us. We decided to look closer to our area of Italy for a cammino (or partial one) that we could accomplish in about 6-8 days.

Here in Abruzzo, there are a number of cammini traversing this mountainous region, such as Cammino dei Briganti (100 km, the one we just completed), Cammino di San Tommaso (316 km) , Cammino della Pace (470 km) and others. The Cammino dei Briganti is a ring course of 7 stages or tappe that traverses the mountainous regional boundary of Abruzzo and Lazio. The Cammino di San Tommaso starts in Rome (Lazio) and ends in Ortona (Abruzzo), on the Adriatic Sea. The Cammino Della Pace starts in L’Aquila (capital of Abruzzo ) and ends on the Gargano Peninsula (the spur of the boot of Italy) of the Puglia region. Hiking any parts of these are all on my radar. Some cammini are about a spiritual trek, others historical or cultural. The one we choose this year would follow the routes that the Briganti travelled in this region.

John and I agreed our first cammino would be with a guide and group. Not ever doing one on our own, we wanted to see what the planning entailed, not only for each stage, but sleeping accommodations, meals, etc. Spending 7 days with a group hiking, touring and eating together was going to be a new experience for John and I. When we take vacations, it’s normally just the two of us heading out to locations not frequently travelled by many tourists. We were going to be hiking with about 8 others. 🙂 What would the week hold for us?

There are a number of mountain guides here in Abruzzo and, after a couple of years following a few of them on Facebook, I knew that I wanted Ercole Wild (Marchionni) to be our guide. Ercole has become one of those legendary guides and you can find him at these sites: Facebook Montagne Selvagge, website Montagne Selvagge. He would be hiking his 12th Cammino dei Briganti, if I’m not mistaken. 🙂

Ercole and Appennino Slow tour group partnered for our cammino. Appennino Slow handled the booking of accommodations, luggage transport and collection of all fees. Ercole did all the day-to- day detail work as well as guide us, inform us, teach us, share his prose, plan meals… making the week an experience to remember always. You may be thinking at this point…’luggage transport’? This cammino we did not carry all our total needs, just our daily items in our backpacks. Each person was allowed one small duffle or piece of luggage that was transported to each accommodation daily. A bit of a luxury for us but certainly lightens the backpack a little. 😉 Next cammino we plan on backpacking everything we need for the entire trip.

This amazing week was chock full of wonders; breathtaking scenery, challenging trails and scenic roads, quaint villages, lovely accommodations and delicious food. The list is long. John and I hike well together; we are matched for stamina and style and we enjoy our time together on the trail or relaxing off. Ercole was inspiring and fun to get to know. He is friends with many people in this area, as he lives not very far from the route. This opened the door to meeting locals along the way that added a special flavor to the experience. I highly recommend that you hike with him someday!

And what about us hiking with a group? Truth be told, at the onset, it was a struggle for John and I. But as the week unfolded and we got to know the others a bit better, we could enjoy the diversity. John ended up being the only male hiker along with Ercole, but he dove in and had fun. Apart from us and Ercole, everyone else had met on another cammino in northern Italy a year ago. Italian was the predominate language spoken for the week, but most everyone knew a smattering of English. Each hiker had his or her individual strengths and experience, but also there were challenges we all had to meet. Whether hiking 22 km in hot humid weather, ascending or descending a trail outside one’s comfort zone, we all took pleasure from our accomplishments together.

Would I do another group cammino in the future with strangers, spending every meal and all my trail time together? In support , there was a strong sense of the daily accomplishments as a group…. To cheer one on when the going got tough ..To take the time to get to know someone and who they are off the trail. And to laugh at the end of the day over amazing food…..we all could smile at that. But on the flip side, for me as well as John, we would like to take more time in the villages that we passed through and to spend more quiet moments as we hiked. So, for us, future walks will be with each other and a few close friends.

With 2021 in our sights, I’m already researching other cammini (or partial ones) here in Abruzzo. John is just shaking his head…. he’s not ready to plan that far in advance. And how did we fare after we returned home? Believe me, the desire to do anything wasn’t very overwhelming. There weren’t aches or pains, but there was a serious lack of energy in both of us for about a week or so…. So a well deserved rest and on to other trails and projects.

The finale…. receiving our certificates of completion back at Sante Marie and a photo op with Ercole.. Just a grand week! We hope that you will also enjoy such an experience someday soon here in Abruzzo if not Italy!

Another hot and dry summer has overtaken us. When the heat is blasting outside, we relax in a darkened, cool house. Then the weather relents a bit and we’re out hiking or working in our yard. No masks needed on the trail or social distancing when it’s just John and I. 😉

As I mentioned last summer, most houses are not air-conditioned here. Walls are thick (stone, brick or block) and windows have shutters (rolldown or hinged). We roll down our shutters just at dawn and they stay down until the sun has progressed low in the evening sky. It’s a bit claustrophobic in such a darkened house but definitely much cooler and how we manage 90+F days. We nap, binge Netflix and Prime, look at social media and eat very lightly. There’s this scene in the movie ‘Hidalgo’ where the actor Omar Sharif, playing a Bedouin sheikh, commands his servants to lift the sides of his tent and let in the light at the end of the day. I feel like I’m in this movie every evening, when we lift the shutters. It somehow makes that daily event even more anticipated and a bit thrilling. 🙂

This year, John put in a small garden out back and it’s gone ballistic. Just a few varieties of tomatoes, cucumbers, sweet peppers and onions, but we are happily overwhelmed. I am very proud of him and love the warm tomatoes I can grab at anytime. He uses the lawnmower clippings for mulch, an organic fertilizer that we use for the olive trees, and a soaker hose when watering is absolutely necessary. The plants are now about 9 feet tall and producing all the way to the tops!

There is a memory my mother shared with me when I was old enough to understand. One day, when I was a very young toddler, she and my dad couldn’t find me. Pretty scary I am sure for them. They searched inside and outside the house. Dad had a vegetable garden out back then and there I was found with tomato smeared all over my face and body. I was a very happy baby and the love story, for tomatoes handpicked and warm, continues to this day.

Our tomatoes came in early as the garden was in a very protected and sunny location. Many of our neighbors got to enjoy our abundance until theirs where ready. Now we’re eating, eating, eating…freezing some and eating more and more…

Since lockdown, which ended on May 4th, we’ve been hiking or trekking a few times every week, temperatures permitting. It’s just not fun when it gets over 31C/ 88F, so we pick and choose our days. When we hike with a group, it is usually Majexperience. We really like their guides and tours located in the Majella National Park, with most of their hikes within 1- 1/2 hours from home. This hike below was to the summit of Monte Porrara (2137 m/7011 ft). It was an amazing hike!! It was challenging but oh so very worth it! A must when you visit the Majella mountains… medium+ level hike.

Another tour/hike with Majexperience. A recently reopened Gole di Fara San Marino with the Abbey ‘L’Abbazia Benedettina di San Martino in Valle’. Mysterious and very moving… some others have done this in the evening after sunset where lighting is provided… Just beautiful. Ours was a day hike, about 6 miles out and back. A popular area so plan your hike during the week or early in the morning if a weekend. Very family friendly!

Apart from these group hikes, John and I have been heading out to new towns in southern Abruzzo and northern Molise. Three Abruzzesse towns we trekked between recently were Casalbordino, Pollutri & Scerni (about 50 minutes from our house and a bit closer to the sea.) The architecture is lovely, with each town having a medieval historic center, and the verdant valleys boast endless vineyards and olive groves. We will definitely return to this area in cooler fall weather to better appreciate the endless beauty.

Of the three towns, I like the atmosphere of Pollutri the best. It’s relatively small with about 2200 inhabitants, narrow streets lined with historic townhouses, ancient palaces and churches, beautiful valley and mountain views, friendly people around a couple of large piazzas and some inviting restaurants we’d like to try out.

The other two towns were equally interesting with the much larger town of Casalbordino, 6000 inhabitants and Scerni, about 3600. These two towns also have great views of the Adriatic Sea and the Majella mountains. I’ll give them more of my time in the fall, as we missed some special places, such as the Sanctuary of the Madonna dei Miracoli in Casalbordino and the Chiesa di San Panfilo in Scerni.

There are many more hikes and treks we have taken so far this summer, but we have an ultimate goal coming up next week… Cammino dei Briganti. We will be sure to share some experiences, most likely when we return home. I’m going to do my best to stay off social media and only use my cellphone for those unforgettable images. Sometimes I need to remember to stay in the present and enjoy the experience, without being behind my camera!

But always, I like to leave you with an image from here in Abruzzo. This one was taken about a 5 minute walk from our house here in the neighborhood Serre . Until next time…..

Restrictions are slowly easing here in Italy. There are more smiles to be seen around town and folks are getting outdoors, finally! It doesn’t mean we can recommence hugging and kissing all our relatives and friends, but at least we can visit. A weight is lifting off our hearts and shoulders.

A few days before Phase 2 (as it’s called here..coming out of lockdown of 8 weeks), I was chomping at the bit to get hiking. That’s all I could think about! My pack was loaded, clothes and boots ready, food planned. What a mess I was. John was almost as eager, and when May 4 arrived, we headed to the top of the mountain behind Roccaspinalveti to the wind turbines. The weather was outstanding. The sky must have gotten bluer during the 8 weeks and the turbines had to be whiter. Truly!

We’ve been crazy to get outside this spring, not only because of the long lockdown, but the weather this year has been gorgeous; somewhat dry for agriculture but for hiking and trekking, just perfect. So now, each week we head out to do a circuit around a local town, using the Valle del Triste trail system. A great local organization out of Palmoli that has spent numerous hours and hard labor (of love) to put this project into motion. You can download their map that shows all the interconnecting trails. They are well-marked with wooden arrows and red & white paint. We’ve walked where ancient cultures tred and we’re awed..

The past few weeks, we’ve done circuits around the stunning town of San Buono and also the medieval town of Furci, all just about 20 minutes or so from our house. And just a couple of days ago, we hiked around Liscia. Here are a few pics from those circuits. I am in my happy place.

Being outside is something both John and I have always loved, whether together or separately. We spent many years out in the wood while we lived in the US; I with search and rescue and John as an avid hunter. Being here in the Frentani Mountains, we are mesmerized daily by the big sky…the wide open vistas. But a confession… not only do we like to get outside, but John and I are gear junkies.. My issue is collecting backpacks and John loves hiking clothes and boots. We’ve tried to tame it down a bit now that we’re retired, but with sites like TrekkInn and Decathlon (as well as a store opening up only 40 minutes from us!), we have to slap our hands a lot when we even think of adding something to the ‘cart’. But truthfully, we are also preparing for some longer hikes here in Abruzzo – this August a 7 day hike (100 km) – Il Cammino dei Briganti. We’re passing on camping out in tents and going for staying in hostels and B&Bs. This first cammino will be with a tour group (Appennino Slow) and well-known and loved mountain guide, Ercole Wild of Montagne Selvagge. Next year, our plans are for a longer cammino, 16 days 316 km , Cammino Di San Tommaso. This one we plan to do on our own and possibly lengthen the time to finish by visiting some of the towns along the way for an extra night or two. Will keep you posted on both these hikes.

Apart from getting out into the woods and mountains, we’ve been setting up our holiday rental for this season. The restrictions should lift this June 3, allowing people to visit from not only other regions of Italy, but from the rest of Europe. I unpacked all the linens, blankets and soft goods that had stayed clean and safe in plastic containers and bags over the winter, and we are open for business this June 1. As we are all trying to do the best for our guests in regards to safety and cleanliness, we have added a self check-in key lock-box, check-in instructions and disinfecting protocol. We’re resigned to the fact that this season will be quiet at best but we have big hopes for 2021. Still we’ve added some improvements both inside and out.

Also keeping me busy have been my Italian lessons. The past year or so, John and I have been enrolled in online courses ‘From Zero to Italian’ with Manu of www.italymadeeasy.com. Many folks have asked me what program I use. I’ve tried a number of online free language portals, private lessons, Italian government lessons, phone apps and I have to say, apart from living in a town where 98% of the populous speaks dialect or Italian and we get Italian ‘lessons’ on the fly, Manu’s style of teaching works for me! You can check out some of his free videos, etc. to get a feel for his teaching style. When I signed up, I decided to start back at the basic beginners and it has been invaluable to me.The courses are at ones’ own pace, which works well for me at this time of my life. And thankfully, I just passed my second course’s final exam and I’m moving up a level!

So apart from not being able to have big family and friends gathering, hugging, kissing and the such with them as well, we feel we are back on track in our lives. Following the rules means wearing a mask when in close proximity to others and distancing oneself as well. Restaurants are doing takeout and the two here in Rocca are reopening with spaced seating. But all in all we feel blessed and very thankful.

As always, I’d like to leave you with something beautiful ….. here in Roccaspinalveti. Please take good care of you and your family and we wish you all good health!

This summer, Europe has been experiencing days of dangerously hot weather from the Sahara Desert, with July breaking all previous records in parts of Germany, Poland, France, Spain, to name a few. Here in the mountains of Abruzzo, Italy, it’s been hot, but not dangerously so. There was a stretch of a few weeks in June and July, where it didn’t rain and stayed in the 90’s (30+ C). This doesn’t take into account the heat indexes and humidity, as we are only a very short distance from the sea. Now it’s August and the heat persists….

So what have we been doing during this smoldering summer, apart from being a bit grumpy and taking numerous showers? And how do we manage without air conditioning in our home? To keep our house cool, as many others in Italy, we drop our roll-down shutters. We start dropping them on the sunny side of the house, also keeping the windows tightly closed. As the sun moves, so does this process. We then open the shutters and windows on the shady side, allowing a lot of cross ventilation. We’re able to get air movement and by adding a few fans, we are managing to keep the house comfortable.

As far as activities, we try to do anything that requires excursion to happen either early morning or late evening. That could be working around the house, cutting grass, or even taking one of my long treks. Either way, we stay out of the sun midday. Naps after lunch have become a needed and enjoyable break.

Another great option to stay cool is going to the beach. The Adriatic Sea is only 45 minutes from the house and it’s lovely. There is an abundance of clear, clean water, soothing surf and it’s not overly crowded during the week. We chose San Salvo Marina for all of these reasons and for the fact it’s very convenient. Oh, if you want the beach quiet like this below, make sure you get there before August! The month everyone is on vacation in Europe…

And what is Romeo doing to stay cool this summer? If he’s not hanging out with us, in front of a fan on the tile floor, he’s downstairs in ‘his’ cantina. This room was used for storing wine and there actually is some remaining. The walls are thick concrete, making for a cool retreat. It almost feels like it’s air-conditioned. And anytime of the day, he can do a bit of (shallow) swimming in his own private pool. He is the lucky one.

But even with the hot weather, the trails and roads call to me most mornings. My mother’s family was all about getting up before the sun and walking miles. I remember my grandfather, Mom’s dad, would walk early most mornings. Mom continued the tradition. My dad hiked and got me started at an early age. So I am definitely a product of my family. I’m up most days before the sun and head out before the heat becomes overwhelming.

Roccaspinalveti, with its surrounding neighborhoods (fraziones) makes for lovely treks. The roads are quiet, safe and the vistas are breathtaking. Here are a couple of treks I wanted to share with you. Maybe someday you will visit and get a chance to try a few. Until then enjoy them on your computer or phone.

This first trek took me through the frazione San Cristoforo toward Monte Sorbo. I was still a long ways from the mountain top on this trek, but the vistas to and from my turnaround point were expansive. Even though it was early in the morning, I was greeted and invited in for coffee a number of times. I declined regretfully and headed home. (Mileage on this trek is off as I forgot to resume for about a mile. So trek is about 9 miles out and back from our house. )

This next trek took me through a few fraziones to swing into town before I headed back home. A nice surprise was meeting Giuseppe, a shepherd, just on the edge of frazione Fatticce. He has a good size flock, all sheared in June. We chatted a bit about sheep and wool production, and then I continued on my way. As I exited Fatticce and climbed up to the town center, I passed the town cemetery. It was truly a serene and lovely place, and out of respect, I posted just the view from the gated entrance.

Summer here in Rocca is full of lots of fun things to do. Town parties, celebrations, sport activities, excursions, with many centered around food….of course! The calendar really picks up in August. That is the month for most folks to take vacation. The beach has the biggest draw during the hot weather, but that doesn’t stop the towns around here from having something fun for everyone. Here is Rocca’s calendar for this summer. And I am sure that there will be more fun planned for the Fall and Winter months.

And amidst all of this, our holiday rental ‘Casa Serre’ is rocking! We are so truly thankful for the guests we have had to date and those booked for the rest of this month. Locals are referring us to their out-of-town families and friends, and others are just interested in seeing Roccaspinalveti for the first time. What a surprise, as we started the season late with our opening July 1. Most folks have their summers already booked well in advance, so any bookings we get this year, we feel are a gift. And all the 5 star reviews on Airbnb are an added bonus.

Hope you are all enjoying your summer. I know at times, it is difficult to understand this world and we just shake our heads. I believe that is one reason I do this blog. Not only to share our experiences moving here and immersing ourselves, but to share the amazing beauty that can lift your spirits and fill your heart. Best to you all ….ciao for now..

I think folks here are wondering if there will ever be a spring this year. Very unusual weather has hit the country and the mountains are blanketed with new snow, and unseasonable cool temps are affecting almost everywhere. Temperatures are chilly even further south into the heel. We found this out on our recent week-long vacation to the Puglia region.

With all the renovations we’ve been working on and the never-ending spring yard work, we figured it was time for a break. We would just be tourists and head south. Romeo went to his favorite dog kennel to have his vacation and John and I board the train with hopes of a warmer destination.

As we only blocked off 5 nights for our journey, I picked two cities for a quick stop. First would be Otranto, a lovely city set on the Adriatic Sea, then we’d finish up in the city of Lecce, a bit inland. My itinerary worked well with us using the train, which we truly enjoy here in Italy. This time we boarded the train from Pescara as it was close to Romeo’s kennel. We treated ourselves to First Class seats, as they are very economical in comparison to those in the US. We had a comfortable 4 hour ride to Lecce. At the Lecce station, we needed to jump on a series of 3 regional trains to reach Otranto, our final destination. We made all our connections, even though they were very tight. We arrived at our final destination in time for check-in to our room, a lovely evening walk around the historic center and finishing out our first evening with a delicious dinner at the seafood restaurant owned by the B&B.

Our first full day in Otranto was set aside to visit the historic center. The city is well known for an event that occurred in 1480, when 813 Christians were martyred by the invading Turks. We visited the cathedral that honors these martyrs with a sobering display of their bones in a side chapel. I found the display deeply moving and a poignant tribute to those of unwavering faith. Also within this cathedral, there is the encompassing mosaic work from the 12th century, commissioned by a bishop and carried out by a monk and his crew. Just fantastic work. Make certain to head downstairs to see the ethereal crypt.

The imposing castle, with strong massive walls surrounding the historic center, was full of great exhibitions, both historical and cultural. There is an in-depth archaeological exhibit that outlines the fantastic ‘Deer Cave‘ discovery just down the coast from Otranto. The interconnecting caves, discovered in 1970 by a team of speleologists, was deemed to constitute a notable local cultural continuity of Paleolithic and Neolithic human occupation. (Wikipedia) Make sure to take your time in the castle.

This formidable castle is staunchly protected by its moat, probably the widest and deepest John and I have ever encountered in our limited travels. The towers along the wall look out over the countryside, but the best views are toward the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic and beyond. On a clear day, you can see the mountains of Albania about 35 miles away.

Our second full day was originally planned to be a short hike to Torre del Serpe, a lighthouse built by the Romans just south of town. But once we got to the tower, we realized this would be our day… here outside along the rocky seacoast. Just stunning and John was lost in his photography and I just in walking. I share some of our combined photos in the slideshow below.

We walked the walled city, visited the main historic sites, saw an awe-inspiring photo exhibition in the Aragonese castle, ate lots of great seafood, took a hike along the coastline and people watched, all packed into the 2+ days we had in Otranto. It’s a lovely spot to relax, gaze out over the sea, shop or visit rocky outcroppings and WWII entrenchments.

There are few points to take into consideration in regards to Otranto, as it is a tourist destination. Costs of lodging and food can be a bit high. Also there is an onslaught of chintzy touristy shops lining the characteristic historic streets. We tend to be a bit sheltered from these living up in the mountains of Abruzzo. 😉 But Otranto is so worth the visit. Simply gorgeous.

When it was time to move on, we boarded our bus, heading inland to Lecce. Our remaining two nights of our vacation would be spent there.

Two days certainly only scratches the surface of this amazing city. We were drawn to visit as it has been labeled as ‘The Florence of the South’. This is due to the ornate Baroque architecture that shouts at you at every turn. Big ‘Wow’ factor! The historic center is large, overflowing with ornate churches (inside and out), piazzas, restaurants and bars, museums, shops and more. We toured, ate great food and toured some more.

The ornamentation lived up to what we had read and seen online. Each church we walked past was embellished and when we ventured inside, we were never disappointed. Below is one of many side chapels in one of the churches we visited.

We visited many of the famous churches, missed some of the larger museums, but had a wonderful find. There is a small museum/archaeological exhibit, Museo Faggiano, that tickled my love for ‘the old’. Many years ago, I studied archaeology in college and then went on to work a dig in Virginia. My career took a different path, but the link is still there to the love of the past in objects created then found. Truly a fascinating place, located because the owner wanted to fix a leaky sewer pipe…What he uncovers in this small building is mind-boggling. It’s funny how the smaller exhibits can speak so loudly. (You may enjoy reading this New York Times article – ‘Centuries of Italian History Are Unearthed in Quest to Fix Toilet’

We did a lot of walking through the historic center, so having a nice place to kick back and rest our feet was important. Our lodging was a fantastic B&B right in the middle of the center, but tucked away in a quiet street. Our host made our short stay very special by bringing fresh pastries to our door each morning. The local breads are truly lovely and the sweets are filled with cream. And in the evening, when dinner was done and we were ready to quit for the day, a quiet comfortable room was all we needed. Just perfect.

Unfortunately, I had come down with a bad cold just at the onset of our vacation and I didn’t shake it off until a few days after we got home. So with only two days in Lecce and me feeling a bit under the weather, we missed a lot to be seen. This city will definitely be revisited by us in the near future.

As I finish writing, it’s still rainy and cold. I think Spring will arrive sometime next week, if the forecast is correct. I’m ready to get my bike out and also do more hiking. Normally I leave you with a landscape view, but today I have this photo John took of me on vacation. It turned out kind of artsy unintentionally. Something to do with the settings not quiet right on his camera, but I kind of like it. And before I go for today, thank you for your kind comments and support of my blog. I hope some of what I share speaks to you and maybe help you plan a trip or even a move here. Hope to see you soon.. ciao for now..