Tough to admit. John and I are slowing down. Not a crazy amount, but yes, our bodies are telling us we are actually closer to our age than we want to admit. We are still very active but the mountains have gotten a bit higher lately without changing their elevation.
Since I was about 11 years old, I have been hiking thanks to my dad who got me hooked. Our first hike together was on the trails of Bear Mountain in New York. I looked up to him and my love for the outdoors became a given. Years in Search and Rescue in Virginia solidified my desire to be in the woods as much as possible, no matter the terrain’s difficulty. About 9 years ago, I realized that search and rescue was not something I could do well any longer. Carrying my search pack and my dog’s water (search dogs do not carry their food or water at a search!) were just overtaking my stamina. It was a sad realization but our upcoming move to Italy tempered that decision.
Now age is telling us that camminos in the upper ranges of medium into the high categories are most likely going to be out of our reach. Our bodies are reacting to the strain and we have to step back to reorganize our future endeavors. Tougher than I really want to admit. No more can we hike the more difficult trails when they aren’t structured for easier passage, depending on the level of trail construction and maintenance. The desire is still there those high ‘notes’, but our physical selves are dictating our limits. We found this all out in this year’s trek, which you can read about below.
Just recently, we headed up to Le Marche to the city of Ascoli Piceno. We were excited to participate in a mid-range 7-day circuit cammino. Usually we plan a few days before or after our camminos to visit the ‘home’ city of that particular route. So prior to one, we spent a few nights in the lovely town of Ascoli Piceno. Amazing architecture, ancient beginnings, museums and of course great food. Folks were very friendly and helpful.
The historic center, built almost entirely of travertine, is among the most monumental in Italy[6] and in it is located the Renaissance Piazza del Popolo. [7][8][9] In medieval times it was characterized by the presence of about two hundred towers, whose erection began immediately after the year 1000. According to tradition, Frederick II had ninety-one of them destroyed in 1242 and their reduction continued in the following centuries. Even today it preserves several examples of noble towers and bell towers and is known as the City of a Hundred Towers. [10]Wikipedia
We had booked for two nights a comfortable suite (Suite Atelier Arringo) situated on a quiet, lush garden, just off Piazza Arringo. The suite included the most sleep-inducing bed, a breakfast room, a large modern bathroom, and a great view of the garden. A breakfast was delivered (very quietly at an agreed time) to our door, chock full of savory and sweet choices. Our kind and responsive hostess, Fiona, was readily available to check us in and easy to reach by Whatsapp. We would definitely return to this lodging in the future.
The Grande Anello dei Borghi Ascolani is a combination of nature, history, breathtaking landscapes and ancient flavors. A 100 km long journey through the magnificent hilltop villages at the foot of the Ceresa and Monti Gemelli mountain ranges, included in the municipalities of Ascoli Piceno, Venarotta, Roccafluvione and Acquasanta Terme. In the timeless silence of medieval villages, among the ruins of ancient castles and solitary hermitages, the walk becomes an all-round experience to discover one of the most fascinating places in the Marche.
Then the disclaimer: Attention: we warn you that this is a medium/high difficulty hiking route – level E of the CAI scale, i.e. a route on a mixed surface (roads, mule tracks, paths and stony ground) that takes place on sections of steep slopes or on short stretches on rock that are not exposed, not particularly tiring or demanding (differences in height not exceeding 1000 m for each stage), but who still require adequate physical preparation, a minimum sense of direction and experience of hiking in mountain environments and above all footwear and equipment suitable for this type of excursion.
So this was my ‘bad’, not reading the above disclaimer a bit more thoroughly, overestimating what we could do at this point in our lives, and mixed with those steep sections with hidden and exposed rock…Firm Stop! John had twisted and reinjured his ankle that he had sprained in February. I was abnormally winded, to find out later that my thyroid meds were off balance. So we only did one day of this cammino, had a midnight bed discussion and for our health and safety, returned home the next day. But we did capture a couple great views along the way on that one day.
Heading home – should have been our second day on the trail, but level heads prevailed. A bit sad about not completing this cammino. That was a first for us. But with this realization, comes acceptance.
That doesn’t mean that we will stop camminos completely! There are so many camminos offered here in Italy for all levels of capability. We will just adjust our choices by our recalibrated focus; less elevation gains each day with the added bonus of taking our time, really getting to know the area we are passing through and definitely stop to see what the local culture, history and cuisine are for that particular cammino. More to see and more to experience. We will be ready!
Italy is filled with an almost endless array of camminos. Depending on the type of experience you wish to have, and your level of fitness, you can find a path here in Italia. Some may last for months, traveling the length of the country, and even going up into the rest of Europe, while others may just be for a few days, circling within one small area. The two sites below will give you a strong base of options to choose from.
This would be our fifth cammino, all five of them taking place here in Italy. As we were in Lombardia last year for La via Francisca del Lucomagno, we thought, that this year, we would go south to Pulgia for Cammino del Salento. There are two slightly different routes to choose from. The first choice is La Via dei Borghi , rich in art and culture passing through towns with Greek heritage, then on to the sea. The other option is all about the sea. We chose that one; La Via del Mare. Our walk would start in the city of Lecce, a baroque architectural gem and finish at the end of the heel of Italy, Santa Maria di Leuca.
We arrived in Lecce to start our cammino mid-October. Its a 5 day, 115 km/71 m cammino that we are going to do slowly over the next 9 days… our slow cammino. We’ve decided to slow it down so we could enjoy the history and scenery at a more leisurely pace and also save our knees and feet from destruction. As last year’s cammino in Lombardia had too many days on pavement, we wanted to be kinder to our slightly older’ bodies going forward. Learning from that experience, I have been researching walks with a more favorable percent of dirt trails and country tracks to a lesser percent of tarmac. This cammino in Puglia was well balanced in that regard.
Lecce, well-known as the ‘Florence of the South’ due to its stunning architecture, will be our starting point. It is our second visit to this lovely city, but we never seem to have enough time to just relax there for a few days. We arrived late in the afternoon to enjoy the breathtaking night time views of the Cattedrale di Maria Santissima Assunta, Campanile del Duomo, Palazzo Arcivescovile in the Piazza del Duomo.
The next morning we begin a walk that will be amazing, beautiful, challenging at times, and so perfectly wonderful.
TAPPA 1 Lecce to San Foca. 25km/15.5m. Our starting point was Porto Napoli in Lecce historic center, walking out into the countryside, through villages and towns to the fortified town of Acaya. As we approached the sea on our second day, the farmland turned into protected marshes until we reached the black sand beaches in this area of the Adriatic. The weather was warm, we tanned and totally relaxed along the shoreline, with our second day completing Tappa 1 in the seaside town, San Foca. We had a quick takeaway dinner and slept well in our Airbnb. Most of the places we stayed on our walk were booked through Booking.com, Airbnb, or directly with establishment. All were pretty darn wonderful!
Throughout much of our walk over the next 9 days, we would see many dry-stack stone structures. We learned from our server, the first night at local restaurant, that these rounded structures, Pajare, were built for the workers in the field to rest protected from the hot sun or inclement weather. Many have been restored and some actually used as attachments to residences. Other structures we would encounter would be the coastal watchtowers, built along the Salento peninsula to warn the inhabitants of impending Saracen attacks.
TAPPA 2 San Foca to Otranto. 24.6km /15.2m. The most beautiful rock formations in the gorgeous blue sea. We would experience the beauty of La Grotta della Poesia, Le Due Sorelle and Faraglioni di Torre Sant’Andrea, all stunning rock formations in this section of the trail. Group those with deep, cool pine forests, historic towers, stone fenced pastures, and many more grottos, we’re loving our slow cammino. We arrive in the fortified town of Otranto on our fourth day.
The port town of Otranto is worthy of a longer visit that just one night. We did have the opportunity to visit here a few years back for a long weekend, enjoying the historic town, churches and castle. The town can become quite busy during the warmer months, with tourists abound, but Otranto is definitely worth the visit.
TAPPA 3 Otranto to Santa Cesarea Terme. 22.6km/14m. one of our favorite two days. The weather has changed from blue skies to overcast, with lots of rain in the forecast.
We trekked passed more signal towers, a bauxite quarry, World War II bunkers which were John’s favorite. We came upon lighthouse ‘Faro di Punta Palascia’, the furthest most eastern point of Italy. The coastline continued to be rugged, with rough seas but gorgeous surf. The views were wide as we moved on south to Porto Badsico. A note here: as it was off season for this coastline, most restaurants were closed in the smaller villages as well as lodging was limited. Thankfully, there were great bars with delicious food available and still some very nice apartments to rent.
Our final destination for Tappa 3 (our day 6 on the trail) was the evocative town of Santa Cesarea Terme, known for its thermal baths. We did not partake but did stay in a lovely villa for the night. When we looked at a few weather apps before we left home, all we saw was gorgeous weather for our 9 days of walking. We always pack a raincoat, but this time we decided to leave our rain pants at home. Thankfully, we made it to Santa Cesarea Terme just as the clouds opened up with a 3 hour soaking rain. We hung out at a bar for the duration, waiting to check into the villa. Drenching avoided. Going forward, I will always pack my rain pants no matter what the weather forecast says.
TAPPA 4 Santa Cesarea Terme to Marina Serra. 24km/14.9m . Today, we walked the entire tappa, as I could not find a halfway point for an overnight stay. The weather was crazy windy today, some rain early and serious surf again. There is something very thrilling about big surf, especially when you can experience it from a safe distance, such as these waves of the Adriatic crashing on the rocky shoreline. We passed through the historic center of Castro to view its castle, then came upon a well attended mountain bike race. Some of the trail that we hiked earlier in the day was to be part of their course. We pushed on to our destination for the day, the tiny hamlet of Marina Serra, known for its Piscina Naturale (Natural Pool). We stayed at a relaxing agriturismo and enjoyed a delicious meal.
TAPPA 5 Marina Serra to Santa Maria di Leuca. 22.3km/13.8m This tappa we split into 2 days. The first half was 14.5km/9m, starting along the boardwalk of Marina Serra then on to roughest, toughest day of our cammino. The trail climbed up out of the marina to connect to the rockiest trail that went on and on and on. We really had to watch our footing as we both chose to wear trail runners for this cammino. The trail markers were few and far between and at one point we missed a turn and almost flew off a cliff. BUT the day was beautiful. We crossed the Ponte Ciolo and headed inland to our destination town, Gagliano del Capo. Once again, a delicious dinner at a local restaurant and a quiet night at a lovely apartment.
OUR FINAL DAY WALKING, rest of TAPPA 5 – only 7.8km/4.8m. Gagliano del Capo to Santa Maria di Leuca, the end of the heel of Italy. It seemed like a short walk this final section of the cammino, until we got to 280+ steps up to Santuario di Santa Maria de Finibus Terrae. The view of the city from the Santa Maria di Leuca Belvedere was gorgeous. There was much to see from the Piazza Giovanni XXIII; the Santurario, the lighthouse ‘Faro di Capo Santa Maria di Leuca, Colonna Mariana, Statua Benedetto XVI. We were hoping to see Albania, but the horizon was too cloudy. Here, also, occurs the meeting of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas! Such an amazing place to visit…
At the Santuario, we would receive our “testimonium”, a diploma of sorts for completion of all the daily stages. We would show our stamped passports, confirming all the stops along the way, and the secretary would carefully enter the day and our names. Unfortunately, the secretary wasn’t available that afternoon, so we returned then next day (our relax day) to obtain our testimoniums. Our slow cammino of 9 days had come to a successful end. We would rest for a full day in town before heading home.
Our relax day really got started after our second 280+ steps climb to get our diplomas. We returned to walk along the harbor, view the many beautifully restored villas, then headed to the Punta Ristola Leuca. This rocky outcrop and seafront lookout, is the southernmost point of Italy’s heel, with rock sculptures and caves. Taking a boat trip to many of the caves and to swim among them would have to wait until a summer visit. We spent the rest of our day being lazy at another great apartment rental and just enjoying our adventure and how much we accomplished. And to top this all off, we ended with a great pizza dinner!
An equipment note: as we carry all our needs, we have worked diligently to keep the weight of our full packs to the barest minimum. All our clothes can be handwashed if a washer isn’t available. We only pack technical clothes that wick moisture, are lightweight but warm if need be. No cotton in our backpacks. As we found on our last cammino, hiking boots, even low hikers, can really hurt our feet and legs on hard pavement, so we have switched to trail runners. They really made a different for both of us. The downside is that they aren’t as supportive as hikers, whether we are using low or mids. We just recently purchased some updated Salomon low hikers that feel almost like trail runners, but with a bit more support. We’ll see if how they shake out in prep for our next cammino.
Not only are our camminos a way to mark accomplishments, but mostly an experience of the land an in this case, also the sea. We walk to our destinations each day instead of using some means of transportation. We have the time to see, hear and feel each moment along the way. We meet amazingly friendly and helpful folks, stay in relaxing accommodations and of course, eat the food of Italy. Sure, we are tired and a bit sore, and the years are slowly catching up with us. We do our best to keep our backpacks as light as possible, trying to remain realistic of what we can actually accomplish but still add challenges to make us proud. I have to say that my husband may not be as fanatical as I am about hiking and walking camminos, but he loves me so much, that he is always my best friend and partner on the trail. We will continue to walk, balancing adventure and reality. Thank you, dear readers, for coming along on this trip with us as I share some moments with you.
Tufillo may appear as an unassuming, quiet village, but walk around a bit and you will be pleasantly surprised. Step into many of the businesses here, and you will be greeted by owners, managers or partners that are women. These women are proponents of their visions for prosperous and fulfilling enterprises, that offer what this community needs and desires. Each of these businesses exude its individualized character in the products they offer, the setting of their venue, and especially the women who offer their product and services.
Showcased here are 5 women who have storefronts or businesses, which are open to the public. There are other women in the planning stage of new enterprises as well as other local farm products and online businesses. Tufillo has many treasures. With each of these ladies, I asked the following questions of which you may find their replies below in their stories:
What inspired you to become a business owner?
What do you offer your customers that makes your business special and a success?
What challenges did you have starting your business? Did any of those challenges relate to you being a woman?
Who are your target customers?
What are your plans for the future of your business?
What do you enjoy the most about your business?
[Please note that translations of the answers for these questions were from Italian to English and that could lead do some clumsy editing on my part. ]
Antonella Monaco – Panetteria Barisano
When John and I first arrived in Tufillo, as prospective home buyers, we walked through the entire town to get a ‘feel’ of the community. As we headed down the main road, our olfactory senses sprang into action and anyone that has passed a bakery knows what I’m talking about. Your mouth immediately starts to water. Before we even stepped into the shop, we could see many lovely loaves of breads and delicious looking sweets through the wide window. We of course, proceeded to meet Dino Barisano and Antonella Monaco and learned that this bakery was renowned for its special pizza!
“In 1971, the spouses Filomena and Luigi Barisano decided to return to Italy from Germany to their town of origin, namely Tufillo, from where they had left for work, so they took over the town’s bakery, where in addition to bread and sweets, they decided to make and sell a typical local pizza that was made by the housewives of the town on special occasions, the so-called “pizza a Figliot”, a pizza made of thin elongated sheets of bread with salt, extra virgin olive oil, sweet pepper and sausage in the shape of a savory strudel. In 2002, Luigi Barisano’s son, Dino, with his wife Antonella took over the family business and marketed this pizza, which is considered a typical product of Tufillo, in nearby towns and also outside the area upon order with a preservation process.” [discoveryabruzzomagazine/16 Aprile 2019] Pictured here are Dino & Antonella.
Though there is definitely collaboration between Dino and Antonella in what they bake, we see Dino as the hearty bread and pizza baker and Antonella as the delicious and pretty pastry creator. They work long and hard hours to supply our community and nearby towns and villages with their creations. We are very thankful for their continued loyalty to excellent products available in our small town.
Antonella shares her thoughts to my questions below.
“I was inspired by the possibility of taking over and continuing the family business, to having my own business and doing a job that I like. We offer bread, pizza and desserts produced with quality ingredients and traditional recipes, but also the availability of innovative and modern products. Variety and freshness of products. Some of the challenges are the return to this country (even if of origin); purchase of a new house; working with 2 children; and working closely with my husband. Our target customers are all people looking for healthy and tasty products. For the future, we look for structural renewal and increase in product variety with the possibility of export. I enjoy the possibility of doing a job that I like and the satisfaction of positive feedback from customers.”
Contact Information: 333.1592018 Antonella 339.3120329 Dino open every day 0800 – 1200 & 1800 -2000, closed Thursday afternoon and Sunday.
Anna Wolff – Angelo 36 Grocery Store
Long before we came to live in Tufillo, Anna had been a part of this community. We were introduced to Anna as the lovely German lady who speaks excellent Italian. This comes in handy when you’re the proprietor of a small-town shop! Once the renovation of her house was completed, Anna moved here full time and has been very busy ever since. We are so very thankful that she was ready to continue operating a grocery shop in Tufillo, once Clelia Petti (former owner) changed career paths.
Anna’s shop offers a multitude of items which most households need regularly. She has made great efforts to assist customers with their specific needs and present her merchandise in a pleasing and inviting manner. And being the devoted animal lover that she is, Anna always has a few resident cats welcoming you at the door of her shop.
Anna shares her thoughts to my questions below.
“I was looking for work in Tufillo, at least in this area, and when Clelia (previous manager) said she didn’t want the shop any longer, I was inspired to take the chance. It was not the plan in the beginning to become business owner; it just happened. 🙂 In my case, I offer a little food shop here in our town, where I sell items that everybody needs. I try to organize everything special that they ask me for. Those challenges related to me coming from abroad (Germany). All the needed documents, bank accounts, and all that bureaucracy was really difficult. The Tufillo people made my beginning very smooth, as they are really open hearted and friendly. My target customers are all those who are hungry. 🙂 For the future, I would love to go online with a little shop and sell our Tufillo olive oil. But also, here the bureaucracy is very difficult, and I just can pray that this dream will work. What I really love and enjoy is the contact with the people. This is the best part of my job.”
Contact Information: Angolo 36, Via Indipendenza 36, 66050 Tufillo. I am open 830-1230 and 1730-1930. Thursday afternoon and Sundays are closed.
Milva Barisano – Artisan Jewelry
On our first visit to Tufillo house hunting, we walked through the characteristic historic enter. We were excited to see that a lovely jewelry store was part of the community. We were to soon find out that it was much more than a jewelry store…a flourishing establishment of Milva’s creativity. We were immediately impressed by her range of artistry, exquisite displays and her graciousness. She is our first and last stop when we look for gifts for family and friends, no matter the occasion. And once we purchased our home, we found ourselves less than a minute walk from her shop! Siamo contenti..
“Milva Barisano is an artisan goldsmith whose passion was born at school and developed thanks to the encounter with important masters in jewelry creation. In her laboratory in Tufillo, a village in the Alto Vastese area, she transforms the ideas that arise from her creativity into fascinating jewels. Choice of materials, elegance and attention to detail are the distinctive features of her creations that win the hearts of those who wear them. ” Milva Barisano.it
Milva shares her thoughts to my questions below.
“Having won a first prize in the ‘Nicola da Guardiagrele’ competition, reserved for the region’s goldsmith craftsmen, pushed me to open my laboratory. I always try to offer my customers trendy and traditional Abruzzo artisan objects but made with my personal taste and with addition of a little creativity. I had to face several bureaucratic challenges for the opening and challenges for locating in a small municipality along with investment costs. My customer base is of different origins and from neighboring towns, different nationalities and both young and older women and men. My plans for the future are to always be able to create handcrafted objects that can satisfy the tastes of my customers and to always be at the forefront in the creation of new models. In my business, I like the fact that I never ‘throw away’ a handcrafted object but that I reinvent it and make it different. I never get bored and always create new objects.”
Contact information: email: milva@milvabarisano.it, Tel.340.0039951, Milva Barisano, Corso Italia, n. 37, 66050Tufillo CH
Claudia Barisano – Claudia’s Home Restuarant
I think of all the amenities that John and I lamented about when we first moved to Tufillo, was that there wasn’t a restaurant here in town any longer. Years back, there was a hotel and pizzeria, but it was closed by the time we arrived. But now, we are ecstatic to have Claudia’s Home Restuarant! And it’s only about a 30 second walk from our house.
The entire family worked very diligently to have the restaurant open by Easter 2024. Maurizio, Claudia’s husband, used his job skills to transform a section of their home into an inviting and cozy venue. The daughters, Valeria and Cleila, worked nonstop to help get the dining area ready as well as setting up the new kitchen.
Claudia shares her thoughts to my questions below.
“I was driven by the desire to deal with people and also I was born into a family of entrepreneurs (shop, bar, building materials). This inspired me to open my home restaurant. I offer traditional and genuine cuisine. I have to face the bureaucratic challenges for all small business owners. My target customers are foreign and Italian people who want to try Abruzzo cuisine. In the future, I would like to organize themed evening and to offer cooking classes. My greatest enjoyment is my contact with the public.”
Largo del Ponte, Tufillo. We are open by reservation only. Call or WhatsApp for information and to make reservations – 3929113539, 3272368577
Marialaura Ottaviano – Bar Mariquita
In almost every village and town throughout rural Abruzzo you will find a bar, the center of activity. What makes ours so special, first and foremost, is Marialaura. Before we actually purchased our house, she was a major contributor in preparing the paperwork that facilitate the contract between us and Giacamo, the contractor/owner/brother. Whether she is working in the bar, assisting with town events or just walking around Tufillo, she is always helpful and kind.
In the summer months, when the umbrellas open up and flowers are blooming in planters, the piazza around the bar is the gathering place for locals and vacationers. Events, whether during the day or evening, always revolve around Bar Mariquita. And year round, even in the coldest months, there are always locals playing cards. Tufillo would be lost without Marialaura, her wonderful employees and the bar!
Marialaura shares her thoughts to my questions below.
“I was inspired, certainly, by the desire to stay in my town and to create an opportunity that would allow me to support myself financially. I offer to the people of this town the nerve center, a place for meetings, chats and new acquaintances. My biggest challenges were economic and certainly the bureaucratic obligations. Also, in general, finding all the resources; material and otherwise. My targeted customers are a mix of children, teenagers, mothers, fathers, grandparents; those local and passing through. For the future, I wish to maintain my professionalism, my relationship with customers, while trying to improve the level of technical equipment, and the environment inside and outside the venue. What I enjoy the most is the liveliness of my days, the absence of monotony and being in the company and the affection of the most loyal customers.”
Tufillo is enriched by these hard-working and talented women. Their commitment to our community is greatly valued, as we understand the many hours that they devote not only to their businesses but to their families as well. In a country that has seen much migration from the smaller towns to career opportunities in the larger cities, we are very thankful that there now is a rejuvenation of the smaller towns and villages. We hope when you visit our lovely town, you have time to stop in these lively and important businesses and meet these wonderful women.
Navigating Life in Abruzzo 