No matter where I have lived, I have never been a big fan of winter. Not enough sunlight hours, temps that make me shiver even with 5 or 6 layers on, house never seeming warm enough unless I’m directly in front of a fire, and so on. There are many of us out there that just make it through the Christmas season and are ready for spring, forget January, February & March. So I’m getting my grumbling out of the way and how can I possibly have room to grumble! I’m living a dream here in Italy.

So it’s our first winter here and this one is actually a mild one. Been averaging around mid 50’s when back on the east coast of the US it’s been bitter cold. I’m sure we’ll get some winter in the next few weeks. I’m able to get some treks in around the farm but I’m keeping to the roads as the fields are gummy with the mud. Taking the dogs out of the courtyard is a guaranteed hosing down upon returning. Notwithstanding, the views are stellar of fields  greening up with winter wheat and the snow-covered Gran Sasso mountains are formidable with 4 meters of snow to-date.

A shepherd just moved his sheep onto a large pasture across the way from us. We’re not sure where he came from with his flock but we are thrilled. Maybe a neighboring farm or perhaps he has moved his flock up the valley from the east. John and I are like children, with the excitement of sampling something pure and simple of life here. We can see their collective form change fluidity as the dogs work, like a large white amoeba on the green hillside….. John was a sport and got up at sunrise today to head over to the ridge-line to see the flock and the working dogs. The sheep had arrived at sundown yesterday and stayed the night grouped together in temporary fencing. This morning, when John arrived, there were 4 men milking right there in the middle of the flock with another working the sheep into place. After each ewe was milked, she was allowed into a large fenced area, while the head shepherd and his German Shepherd moved the next batch up to the milkers. As John approached, two guardian dogs (Cane da pastore Maremmano-Abruzzese) made it very clear to him to keep his distance from their flock. Once the milk was all collected, it was transported away in a van with the milkers. The cheese, that will be made from this milk, (most often Pecorino) is amazing and all four of us have gotten hooked. Romeo and Orso suck down any pieces we’re willing to dole out.

When I got up this morning, the flock was still there with the milkers most likely to return before moving the sheep on to their next pasture.

The Girls

Everyone Working

Milk for Cheese

The Milkers

Lead Shepherd

Guardians

The Herder

Finishing up

Those milked & those waiting

Now Time to Graze

Photos by John R. Dodge

Winter, I’ve decided, is also a good time to look for a house to buy. Yes, we need to make that decision eventually, as houses here in Italy aren’t usually rented indefinitely. They tend to go up for sale or to a family member in need. Such is the case with the house we’re renting now. The owner hopes to put it on the market in about a year. We are loving it here, but even though it is home now and it’s in such a stunning location, is a true bear to heat in the winter. So we’re going to look for something a bit smaller and take our time before we jump to buy. It may take us a year or so until we find what will work for us. I figure winter is a good time to look as you can see a house at its worst and then decide if you can live in it through the cold winter months. Does it make us feel warm and cozy, do we want to take a trek out into the weather, or just be at peace in our own place. So off we go this week to start looking. And where? We’d like to stay in the Abruzzo region within 45 minutes of the Adriatic. Maybe find a cottage in walking distance of a village with a bit of land for the dogs. Be situated in the hills between the sea and the mountains. The amazing thing about Abruzzo is that you can be swimming in the sea as you gaze at the mountains, they are that close.  I’ll update you down the road how the house hunting is going.

Something new that you will find on this site is the page,  John’s recipes.  Folks on Facebook have been asking for his recipes as I post the yummy soups he has been making for us this winter. As I add more recipes to the page, I may end up categorizing them as we go along. Enjoy and if you have any questions about them, leave a comment on the recipe page and John will get back to you.

As always, I’ll leave you with today’s view of the Gran Sasso at dawn. Ciao for now.