South to the Heel

I think folks here are wondering if there will ever be a spring this year. Very unusual weather has hit the country and the mountains are blanketed with new snow, and unseasonable cool temps are affecting almost everywhere. Temperatures are chilly even further south into the heel. We found this out on our recent week-long vacation to the Puglia region.

With all the renovations we’ve been working on and the never-ending spring yard work, we figured it was time for a break. We would just be tourists and head south. Romeo went to his favorite dog kennel to have his vacation and John and I board the train with hopes of a warmer destination.


As we only blocked off 5 nights for our journey, I picked two cities for a quick stop. First would be Otranto, a lovely city set on the Adriatic Sea, then we’d finish up in the city of Lecce, a bit inland. My itinerary worked well with us using the train, which we truly enjoy here in Italy. This time we boarded the train from Pescara as it was close to Romeo’s kennel. We treated ourselves to First Class seats, as they are very economical in comparison to those in the US. We had a comfortable 4 hour ride to Lecce. At the Lecce station, we needed to jump on a series of 3 regional trains to reach Otranto, our final destination. We made all our connections, even though they were very tight. We arrived at our final destination in time for check-in to our room, a lovely evening walk around the historic center and finishing out our first evening with a delicious dinner at the seafood restaurant owned by the B&B.

Our first full day in Otranto was set aside to visit the historic center. The city is well known for an event that occurred in 1480, when 813 Christians were martyred by the invading Turks. We visited the cathedral that honors these martyrs with a sobering display of their bones in a side chapel. I found the display deeply moving and a poignant tribute to those of unwavering faith. Also within this cathedral, there is the encompassing mosaic work from the 12th century, commissioned by a bishop and carried out by a monk and his crew. Just fantastic work. Make certain to head downstairs to see the ethereal crypt.

The imposing castle, with strong massive walls surrounding the historic center, was full of great exhibitions, both historical and cultural. There is an in-depth archaeological exhibit that outlines the fantastic ‘Deer Cave‘ discovery just down the coast from Otranto. The interconnecting caves, discovered in 1970 by a team of speleologists, was deemed to constitute a notable local cultural continuity of Paleolithic and Neolithic human occupation. (Wikipedia) Make sure to take your time in the castle.

This formidable castle is staunchly protected by its moat, probably the widest and deepest John and I have ever encountered in our limited travels. The towers along the wall look out over the countryside, but the best views are toward the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic and beyond. On a clear day, you can see the mountains of Albania about 35 miles away.

Our second full day was originally planned to be a short hike to Torre del Serpe, a lighthouse built by the Romans just south of town. But once we got to the tower, we realized this would be our day… here outside along the rocky seacoast. Just stunning and John was lost in his photography and I just in walking. I share some of our combined photos in the slideshow below.

We walked the walled city, visited the main historic sites, saw an awe-inspiring photo exhibition in the Aragonese castle, ate lots of great seafood, took a hike along the coastline and people watched, all packed into the 2+ days we had in Otranto. It’s a lovely spot to relax, gaze out over the sea, shop or visit rocky outcroppings and WWII entrenchments.

There are few points to take into consideration in regards to Otranto, as it is a tourist destination. Costs of lodging and food can be a bit high. Also there is an onslaught of chintzy touristy shops lining the characteristic historic streets. We tend to be a bit sheltered from these living up in the mountains of Abruzzo. 😉 But Otranto is so worth the visit. Simply gorgeous.

When it was time to move on, we boarded our bus, heading inland to Lecce. Our remaining two nights of our vacation would be spent there.

Two days certainly only scratches the surface of this amazing city. We were drawn to visit as it has been labeled as ‘The Florence of the South’. This is due to the ornate Baroque architecture that shouts at you at every turn. Big ‘Wow’ factor! The historic center is large, overflowing with ornate churches (inside and out), piazzas, restaurants and bars, museums, shops and more. We toured, ate great food and toured some more.

The ornamentation lived up to what we had read and seen online. Each church we walked past was embellished and when we ventured inside, we were never disappointed. Below is one of many side chapels in one of the churches we visited.

We visited many of the famous churches, missed some of the larger museums, but had a wonderful find. There is a small museum/archaeological exhibit, Museo Faggiano, that tickled my love for ‘the old’. Many years ago, I studied archaeology in college and then went on to work a dig in Virginia. My career took a different path, but the link is still there to the love of the past in objects created then found. Truly a fascinating place, located because the owner wanted to fix a leaky sewer pipe…What he uncovers in this small building is mind-boggling. It’s funny how the smaller exhibits can speak so loudly. (You may enjoy reading this New York Times article – ‘Centuries of Italian History Are Unearthed in Quest to Fix Toilet’

We did a lot of walking through the historic center, so having a nice place to kick back and rest our feet was important. Our lodging was a fantastic B&B right in the middle of the center, but tucked away in a quiet street. Our host made our short stay very special by bringing fresh pastries to our door each morning. The local breads are truly lovely and the sweets are filled with cream. And in the evening, when dinner was done and we were ready to quit for the day, a quiet comfortable room was all we needed. Just perfect.

Unfortunately, I had come down with a bad cold just at the onset of our vacation and I didn’t shake it off until a few days after we got home. So with only two days in Lecce and me feeling a bit under the weather, we missed a lot to be seen. This city will definitely be revisited by us in the near future.

As I finish writing, it’s still rainy and cold. I think Spring will arrive sometime next week, if the forecast is correct. I’m ready to get my bike out and also do more hiking. Normally I leave you with a landscape view, but today I have this photo John took of me on vacation. It turned out kind of artsy unintentionally. Something to do with the settings not quiet right on his camera, but I kind of like it. And before I go for today, thank you for your kind comments and support of my blog. I hope some of what I share speaks to you and maybe help you plan a trip or even a move here. Hope to see you soon.. ciao for now..

4 thoughts on “South to the Heel

  1. Thanks for sharing. Lovely photos! Lecce is one of the cities I want to visit once we retire (hopefully 2020). Glad the train ride worked. Glad you enjoyed your well deserved rest.

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  2. Hello, thank you so much for your blog. My husband Tim and I have read it all going back to the beginning and have been following it for a few months now. We too would like to retire to Italy hopefully next year. My husband sent you a friend request on Facebook as we would like to correspond with you on the details of our plans and would really value any advice you and your husband can share. I look forward to hearing from you.

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    1. Hi Lisa and Tim, thank you for following my blog. I hope some of the info will help you on your journey to living in Italy, or just visiting! I hadn’t seen your comment right off, but saw Tim’s request. I deleted it as I thought it Spam. You’ll have to forgive me as it was early in the morning..lol.. then I saw your comment. So I sent a request back to Tim in the hopes he would accept it. Feel free to ask any questions and I’ll do my best to give you my thoughts from my limited experience. 🙂 Thanks again, Helene

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